Steve.....Both Portrait or Night Scene both default to AWB but you can change this to any of the other settings and the F1 will use what you set.
I don't think that the discriptions that Casio is using for Movie mode are very good. I have been shooting in Night Scene for the MF it allows me to use. My full daylight video is excellent. The camera changes Iso, fstop and shutter speed depending on the lighting conditions. These settings are displayed when you push the shutter button half way. If the settings are in white, I assume the camera is using those setting. If the settings are displayed in orange, I assume the F1 didn't like what I set.

Also, I have noticed that the SD settings gives me a wider view when zoomed all the way out. Almost like the F1 is using all the sensor in SD. When I switch to HD or FHD at the same wide angle and bring the video into Sony Vegas the F1 is only using a portion of the frame? Also, the footage produced in SD by the F1 looks very clean.

Also, I have noticed that the SD settings gives me a wider view when zoomed all the way out. Almost like the F1 is using all the sensor in SD. When I switch to HD or FHD at the same wide angle and bring the video into Sony Vegas the F1 is only using a portion of the frame? Also, the footage produced in SD by the F1 looks very clean.

It's been reported that in HD mode, full-wide is 45mm. On a 35mm camera a 50mm lens is considered Normal -- not Wide. A 0.7X adaptor would get you to 32mm which is an acceptable Wide.

Don't know if there is an adaptor available.

steve (or anyone else on here) If you want to make some cash from the F1, pm me. I am setting up a site to sell stock video, amongst other things... and the F1 has the right quality to sell very well as stock.

Interesting idea. Who do you think would be interested in the video?

Are you in Portugal? If so, how is the F1 being sold in Europe? Is it selling well? Do your units shoot 720p30 or 720p25?

Hi Steve, I owned a stock business selling stock video to web designers but recently sold to raise revenue for my next venture... it was a booming $7figure business and our next site launch will hopefully take it even further.

I don't want to break the house rules of the forum and look like I am spamming, so please pm me if you want further details.

Yea, i'm in Portugal (moved from england) the F1 is also 30p here (although it can output a stream in PAL, apparently)... 30fps suits me as 95% of stock sales are 30p. I'm the only person happy about the 30p on the canon 5d II!

Neither the F1 or the 5D II are selling too well here according to the camera store I buy from.... probably due to the 30fps rate. So I expect a 25fps upgrade for the 5D II, if Canon want to boost sales here. (I was told I was the first person to pre-order a 5dII and this is a big, europe wide store! 2nd only to Amazon)

30fps suits me as 95% of stock sales are 30p. I'm the only person happy about the 30p on the canon 5d II!

With a target of BD or the net -- shooting 24p is IMHO way out of date. Who's going to real film these days?

Without 2-3 pulldown judder to clue one to 24p, I'll bet VERY few can tell 30p/25p from 24p.

Yet, 30p/25p is so much simpler to work with!

Will contact you.

yea, I don't see massive differences to shooting 24p or 30p on my hvx

If the lighting, music, narative etc are done well, the frame rate is the least important issue for joe public.

FYI....here is a link to a program that can creates Best Shot modes for the Casio line of Cameras. It looks like they have an update that supports the EX-F1

BestMan Bestshot Editor (http://www.sassenfeld.de/software/bestman/bestman_e.html)

great link, i'll put that to the test

My EX-F1 arrived today. A program to create BS is perfect addition. Not sure if the one you create can be used for video.

I noticed something about locking the AF . I could only get the AF-L to work in movie mode when I use the setting AF-L & AE-L together . When I use AF-L by itself it would reset when I pressed record. This was in Movie Mode – BS. Also if I had face detection enabled, the Side Focus button stop allowing changes between AF, Macro, Infinity, and MF.

I noticed something about locking the AF . I could only get the AF-L to work in movie mode when I use the setting AF-L & AE-L together . When I use AF-L by itself it would reset when I pressed record. This was in Movie Mode – BS. Also if I had face detection enabled, the Side Focus button stop allowing changes between AF, Macro, Infinity, and MF.

Once you set Face Detection, it controls AE and AF based upon the faces. So "naturally" it turns off your ability to make other AF and AE settings.

The problem is unlike even the worst Sony manual -- none of the interactions are written in the manual. So YOU have to figure out what is "natural" by trial and error.

The great thing is the F1 shoots wonderful HD! The color is much better than the consumer AVCHD type camcorders which sell for the same price.

Here are some F1 camera tips for video:Feel free to correct any that might not be accurate.
1. Must turn off Face Detection for MF to work.
2. If you want to shoot 1/60 shutter, shoot in BS-Pet mode.
3. In low light shoot in SD instead of HD for another Fstop of light.
4. If AE-L and/or AF-L is not displayed in white on the LCD screen ( upper left corner) when recording , the AE-L and/or AF-L is not locked.
5. In the LCD screen, the settings must be in white for the camera to accept them.
6. Dynamic Range resets to 0 on camera start or change of BS mode, set this to +2 for best range.
7. Anti Shake resets to Auto on camera startup, reset this to Camera AS for handheld shots.
8.To adjust the metering of the shot, move to a lighter or darker area of the shot, then lock AE-L.

SD shoots 30i interlace
HD shoots 30p progressive
FHD shoots 60i interlaced

BS-Portrait
1. AF only
2. Default ISO 400 (can reset this to 100 – 1600 or auto)
3. Can lock AE and/or AF
4. Shutter changes
5. WB can be manually set

BS-Night Scene
1. AF, Macro, Infinity or MF (Face detection must be off)
2. Default ISO 100 (can reset this to 100 – 1600 or auto)
3. AE-L works
4. MF stays when zoom in then out.
5. Shutter changes
6. WB can be manually set
7. On start up, camera defaults to AF. Must use side focus button the change to MF

BS-Pet
1. AF, Macro, Infinity or MF (Face detection must be off)
2. Default ISO 400 (can reset this to 100 – 1600 or auto)
3. Must be in MF to half push photo button to see settings
4. Shutter stays at 1/60 (if it changes to 1/80, set ISO to 100 to force 1/60)
5. Fstop changes
6. On start up, camera defaults to AF. Must use side focus button the change to MF
7. WB can be manually set

The sweet spot:
Shoot, BS-Night Scene or BS-Pet mode for manual control, adjust ISO to reduce video noise and use MF.
When you have plenty of light use HD, in low light use SD.

Great tips Daniel... thanks for that

I forgot one:
9. Set the CS Dial to the third setting. I don't have access to the manual right now or I would find what it is called. All these setting were with the CS Dial set to the one without red on it. If you change the CS Dial, it changes some internal settings. I haven't explored what changes when you change the CS Dial.

Here are some F1 camera tips for video:Feel free to correct any that might not be accurate.

These are for low-light (indoor) shooting it seems. Right?

If so, they do not translate to outdoor. For example, what you say is 1/60th may become 1/250th outdoors. Since high-speed motion is typically only a problem outside, the need is for 1/60th, not 1/250th.

The problem with BS modes is that Movie Mode does not use any copied modifications you make. Yes, you can change them after you choose one, but upon Power-up they revert to the original BS. And, many BS alter far more than you want modified -- like turning-on face detection, or the worst -- digital zoom.

Bottom-line, using the supplied BS modes can create as many problems as they solve for HD movie shooting.

Also, are you trying to use A or S modes with movies? You can set S and A but they have no affect when you shoot a movie.

PS 1: Do you have a "20" showing by AWB vertical list of controls when you shoot a movie?

PS 2: Do you find that once in a while a very dark movie is recorded? Trying a second time gets a perfect movie.

4. If AE-L and/or AF-L is not displayed in white on the LCD screen ( upper left corner) when recording , the AE-L and/or AF-L is not locked.

5. WB can be manually set

3. Must be in MF to half push photo button to see settings


Correct, if you need to zoom you can only use MF. And, you must set MF the correct way if you plan to zoom-IN. If you plan to zoom-OUT, backfocus needs to work perfectly. (Haven't checked.) Zooming always unlocks AE/AF Lock. That means AE remains enabled when you zoom thus possible fluctuations. Often not what one wants.

WB can always be manually set. Great!

#3 -- not sure what you mean.

I knew you guys would love that camera.....unbelievably good video- just as good as the Canon HF100 but with more controls over parameters.......I wonder if Casio is working on a newer improved model!

I knew you guys would love that camera.....unbelievably good video- just as good as the Canon HF100 but with more controls over parameters.......I wonder if Casio is working on a newer improved model!

I'm sure glad you posted!

I did a book on the "highly rated" SR12 and I had to CC every shot to get accurate skin tone. The F1 is spot on every time. The SR12 had no 720p30 and yet that is the sweet-spot of editing and internet HD video. And, just in case you want to shoot 1080i60 -- you've got it too.

I'm going to CES since I live in Vegas and will be looking for a new model. Casio is very close to perfection. A few firmware tweeks or even a new set of BS Movie modes.

PS: The AGC seems to work as Limiter.

Thank's for the tip.

I have a question: the remote control seems to be unable in video mode? is there a tip to use it (start and stop video).


Regards

Gilles

Thank's for the tip.

I have a question: the remote control seems to be unable in video mode? is there a tip to use it (start and stop video).


Regards

Gilles

I'll bet it only snaps stills. :(

My settings are for indoors or outdoors. I am now only using BS-Night Scene or BS-Pet.

I leave the Mode dial set to BS. I have tried the other settings and was not happy with any (A, S, M, or auto). Also I leave the CS dial on Single Shot. I do not change these dials.

I have set Face Detection to off. This setting remains off when I power the camera off/on.

I need to reset the Dynamic Range to +2 because the camera does not retain this setting.

I am only concerned with a few other settings. If I have a static shot, I will frame the shot, let the camera set the exposure and focus then lock AE-L and AF-L. If I use the zoom, it will unlock the AE-L and AF-L. I will let the camera adjust the focus and AE.

If I don’t want AE or focus hunting, I will use the side focus button to get MF, zoom in to set focus, lock the AE-L then reframe. Zooming in MF with the AE-L locked has not caused flicker or focus hunting.

When outside in BS-Pet mode, the camera will default to different shutter speeds. At this time I don’t care what shutter speed I use outside but I have noticed that if I manually set the ISO to 100 instead of auto (the default) the shutter changes to 1/60. I have not explored this in dept. It appears that the camera is using ISO 100 and 1/60 shutter but this would need to be verified.

PS 1: Do you have a "20" showing by AWB vertical list of controls when you shoot a movie?
Yes, I have never noticed that before and do not know what it is.

PS 2: Do you find that once in a while a very dark movie is recorded? Trying a second time gets a perfect movie
Yes, when I was making a lot of changes in the camera. Turning the camera off/on would reset the memory. Now I use only 2 BS modes so I don’t get this anymore.

PS 1: Do you have a "20" showing by AWB vertical list of controls when you shoot a movie?
Yes, I have never noticed that before and do not know what it is.

PS 2: Do you find that once in a while a very dark movie is recorded? Trying a second time gets a perfect movie
Yes, when I was making a lot of changes in the camera. Turning the camera off/on would reset the memory. Now I use only 2 BS modes so I don’t get this anymore.

I'm glad you've got the same issues. I can't think of what the "20" could mean. Have you applied the firmware update? I have not.

I also seem to get dark pix when shooting with the flash.

I have the latest firmware installed. The black flashing pixels in the LCD screen are areas that the camera sees as overexposed. This is the same as zibras strips that other cameras use.

Ok, I feel really stupid. I think I just figured out this camera and it’s simple. The light finally came on. Let’s see if I can explain it.

This camera is really two cameras in one. It is a picture taking camera and a video camera. I know this is simple but important. You can take pictures in the video part of the camera and you can take video in the picture part but don’t. If you do, your pictures or video will not look the best. If you are using the picture controls, only take pictures not video. Also when you have set the controls for video don’t take pictures. If you remember this, you will not get frustrated and want to sell the camera.
Ok, so you ask what are the picture controls and what are the video controls. I’ll divide them up for you.

The picture controls.
1. Shutter release, CS Dial, Mode Dial ( auto, A, S, Manual)
You can use these also for video but don’t .

The video controls
1. To start with set the CS Dial to Single (this is the video setting for this dial). It’s the only one without red markings on it. Next set the Mode Dial to BS (Best Shot)( optimized for video). Set these and then leave them there. Believe me, there are a number of other settings to adjust if you want to. If you move these two dials to any other setting you are getting into the picture taking part of the camera. It will take video but you may not like the results. Also set the Movie mode dial to SD (I haven’t tested all this with HD or HS yet). Use SD because I call it “what you see on the LCD screen is what you get”. If it’s dark on the LCD screen, your video will be dark. If it looks too bright it probably is.

2. Next remember, in BS mode there are some presets already configured for you. This was done so you would not have to drill down into the menu system and set them but if you want to, you can change most of them. They used names like Pet, Flower , Night Scene … ect. But let me explain that these BS-modes just manipulate menu and submenu items. When you choose one of these BS setting, it turns on or off certain menu/submenu items. If you want to see what they manipulate just drill into the Menu-Rec/Quality items or the LCD screen right side menu. They change these different menu settings to get different looks. I will list most of the items that can be changed at the end. Also when you turn off the camera or change BS-modes (this is important), all the settings reset back to default. So if you have a long shoot, make sure the camera Set Up- Auto Power Off setting is at its highest setting. Also make up your mind which BS mode you are going to use because if you change BS-mode you reset the camera to it default BS setting. This is really just an inconvenience because at any time you can drill down into the Menu/submenu and set these again to achieve the look you want. One other thing, they decided to hide a couple of settings ( Portrait refiner / noise filter). I am guessing at this because I have seen this setting listed on other Casio cameras. So I would think it would also be on the F1.

Ok, lets get started shooting video. First set the CS dial to Single, next set the Mode Dial to BS then power on the camera also don’t forget to set the camera to SD. You are now in the video part of the camera. Next push the SET button to select the BS mode you want. This is just a starting point. I like to use BS-Night Scene because it presets the Menu-REC-Face Detection to off. This lets me use the four different focus selections (AF, Macro, Infinity or MF). I can now change any number of Menu/ submenu items. Some are located on the right side of the LCD screen others are buried under the Menu –REC or Quality sections. If the item is in white you can change it. If it is grayed out you can’t. Half press the shutter button to see what ISO the camera is using. If the readout is in white you are good to go. If it is orange, the camera did not like some setting. Usually this is the amount of light you are trying to shoot in. The camera is very good about knowing what setting and how much light it needs. Change the amount of light or change the setting of the camera (BS-mode) use another BS-mode.

I like to change a few items right away. Here is a list of what I change.

Menu-Rec-AE/AF Lock > AE Lock (this lets me only lock AE because I like to zoom and shoot with MF)I don’t need to lock focus because I am shooting MF.

Menu-Rec-Ring Setup > Focus (this lets me use the focus ring to adjust MF)

Menu-Quality-Dymanic Range > +2 (I like the looks this gives the video)

Menu-Quality-Contrast > +2 (I like the looks this gives the video)

Menu-Quality-Saturation > +1 (I like the looks this gives the video)

Somethings to check: They should be off by default. If not change them.
Menu-Rec-Face Detection > OFF (If it is on the camera stays in AF and I want to shoot in MF)
Menu-Rec-Continous AF > OFF

Ok, we are in MF because I used the Focus button on the side of the camera to change the focus. Now, frame the shot, adjust focus , push the AE-L/AF-L button on the side of the camera to lock AE only and press REC. If AE-L is not in white in the upper left LCD corner, the AE is not locked. Stop recording and repush the side AE-L/AF-L button to lock it. Now start recording again.

Here is a list of the other settings that you can change in the Menu/submenu items:

Focus> AF, Macro, MF or Infinity (focus button on side of camera)
Metering> Multi, Centered Weighted or Spot (right side of LCD screen)
AF Area> Spot, Tracking, or Free (right side of LCD screen)
EV Shift> -2 to +2 (right side of LCD screen)
ISO> Auto, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 (right side of LCD screen)
White Balance> AWB, MWB, ...ect (right side of LCD screen)
Sharpness> -2 , -1, 0 , +1, +2 (Menu-Quality-Sharpness)
Contrast> -2 , -1, 0 , +1, +2 (Menu-Quality-Contrast)
Saturation> -2 , -1, 0 , +1, +2 (Menu-Quality-saturation)
Color Filter> B/W, Sepia, Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, Pink, Purple (Menu-Quality-Color Filter)
Color enhancement> Flesh tones (This is hidden. I believe it is used when you choose BS-Portrait or BS-Night portrait)
Portrait refiner/ noise filter> Off, +1, +2 (This is hidden. I believe it is used when you choose BS-Portrait or BS-Night portrait)
Dynamic range> Off, +1, +2 (Menu-Quality-Dynamic Range)
Anti shake> Off, Image AS, Camera AS, Auto (Menu-REC-Anti Shake)
Auto focus Assist Light> Off, On (Menu-REC-AF Assist)

All these settings can be manually changed for each shot if you wanted to. It would be nice if Casio would let me make my own Movie BS-mode. I could set up the camera just the way I wanted for a particular shot, then save it. I could recall the BS-mode and all my settings would remain. I think I would call it “Thornton’s BS” but until an upgrade to firmware or somebody shows me how to make a Movie BS, I’ll have to adjust the camera every time I start it up.
One last thing, I shoot 99.9% on a tripod.

What editing software are you guys using?
Has anyone tried using Cineform?
Does anyone have a few test files I can download?

Thanks,

Michael

Ok, I feel really stupid. I think I just figured out this camera and it’s simple. The light finally came on. Let’s see if I can explain it.

This camera is really two cameras in one.

Half press the shutter button to see what ISO the camera is using.

Here is a list of the other settings that you can change in the Menu/submenu items:

Focus> AF, Macro, MF or Infinity (focus button on side of camera)
Metering> Multi, Centered Weighted or Spot (right side of LCD screen)
AF Area> Spot, Tracking, or Free (right side of LCD screen)
EV Shift> -2 to +2 (right side of LCD screen)
ISO> Auto, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 (right side of LCD screen)
White Balance> AWB, MWB, ...ect (right side of LCD screen)
Sharpness> -2 , -1, 0 , +1, +2 (Menu-Quality-Sharpness)
Contrast> -2 , -1, 0 , +1, +2 (Menu-Quality-Contrast)
Saturation> -2 , -1, 0 , +1, +2 (Menu-Quality-saturation)
Color Filter> B/W, Sepia, Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, Pink, Purple (Menu-Quality-Color Filter)
Color enhancement> Flesh tones (This is hidden. I believe it is used when you choose BS-Portrait or BS-Night portrait)
Portrait refiner/ noise filter> Off, +1, +2 (This is hidden. I believe it is used when you choose BS-Portrait or BS-Night portrait)
Dynamic range> Off, +1, +2 (Menu-Quality-Dynamic Range)
Anti shake> Off, Image AS, Camera AS, Auto (Menu-REC-Anti Shake)
Auto focus Assist Light> Off, On (Menu-REC-AF Assist)

All these settings can be manually changed for each shot if you wanted to. It would be nice if Casio would let me make my own Movie BS-mode.

While it is two cameras, when you look at the LCD/VF it behaves in a third way which I call VIEW mode. In VIEW mode the camera adjusts everything so YOU can clearly see the scene. This is often not the way a pix or recording will look.

Only when you half-press the shutter button OR press the LOCK button does the camera actually set itself for the correct AE and, optionally AF.

However, I have my doubts that the readings when you half-press the shutter button are the ones actually used for movie recording. I'll be running lab tests by RECORDING to actually test what is really being controlled.

So, while you list many items you can change. I think if you test each one BY A RECORDING you'll find they do NOT affect Movie mode. In other words, when you half-press the shutter-button it will look like they are in effect -- and they are if you take a still. But, other than WB, many are ignored when you press the Movie button.

Bottom-line in Movie mode (at least 720p30):
You can always use MF
You can always set WB
You can always lock AE
You can always turn-off flash.

For exposure, BS can only directly set shutter-speed. There is no direct control of Iris.
Which is why creating BS modes is critical and what I'm working on.

PS: Although you like to use MF, don't forget Continuous AF mode which eliminates the need to half-press the shutter-button. Just press LOCK.

PS: I would avoid zooming. It really is a sign of shoddy camera work and it unlocks AE which allows fluctuations. (Pretend you are using prime lenses.)

Steve, thanks for the suggestions. They are great. I am glad you are testing also.

Michael, I use Sony Vegas 8.0 and yes I have Cineform. Vegas can use the Mov files straight from the camera. You need to make sure that Vegas is configured correctly. These files are 1.00 square (pixel aspect ratio). SD is upper field first (field order) HD is progressive. SD is 640 x 480. Also if you don't render them correctly the end video could look blurred

Daniel,

I have Vegas 8 and Cineform. What is your workflow?

Do you use Cineform to convert the Casio .mov files to a Cineform .avi, then import that into Vegas? Or do you just import the Casio .mov files straight into Vegas as mentioned in your post?

Thanks for the tip on the project settings.

Michael

My workflow depends on the video I shot. If it is SD, I start a new Project using the template NTSC DV (720x480, 29.970 fps). Then I change pixel aspect ratio to 1.0000 (Square), field order to upper field first, and width to 640. Then click ok. This sets up the Vegas project to the same as the video I will use. I like to add Event Pan/Crop 16:9 Widescreen TV aspect ratio so the footage looks like widescreen. Also I might add different Video event FXs to the video. When I render this, I use the free add on from Vasst "DVD prep". I will run this from the timeline rendering NTSC or FILM24p and always 4:3 aspect for SD footage. This will render the footage for DVD Architect so it will not recompress the file. I then add the mpg file to my DVD Architect project.

If I have shot HD 720, I start a new Project using the template HDV 720-30p (1280x720, 29.970 fps). I don't change any default settings. I also render off the timeline using "DVD Prep" NTSC or FILM24p and always 16:9 widescreen. This will render the footage for DVD Architect so it will not recompress the file. I then add the mpg file to my DVD Architect project.

I am not using Cineform at this time.

Here is a link to some video I shot. You can download the footage. Most of it is stright from the F1.
Casio F1 on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/2467549)

HD is progressive.

Except when its 1080i60 -- where it is top field dominant.

Under OS X: Avid Media Composer, Premiere Pro CX3, and iMovie HD 06. FCP also seems to work, but must check more. iMovie 08 requires conversion via MPEGstreamclip.

I'm sure EDIUS will work as well, but must check.

PS: Think of the camera as 6 blocks:

CMOS chip
Image Processor
JPEG compressor
AVC compressor with audio
SD card controller
Playback system

The Image Processor uses one set of rules for Stills. However, when you press the Movie record button it uses another set of rules.

Movie rules: YUV rather than RGB output; 601/709 colorspace rather than sRGB; limited range of shutter-speed; perhaps limited ISO; different gamma, etc.

Therefore, the IP can use, modify, or ignore the settings you make. It's not certain yet that the read-out you see reflects the IP using Still or Movie rules.

Bottom-line, you are very correct -- it is two different cameras.

Daniel,

I'm new to using Vimeo, so I have one follow up question: Is the Quicktime download link the file straight from your camera or does Vimeo alter, change or compress it when you upload it?

If its the file straight from your camera it appears to work flawlessly! I tried importing the file straight into Vegas and it worked perfectly. I used Cineform Neo HD to convert it to a Cineform .avi and that worked as well.

Thanks for all your help,

Michael

Daniel, Steve and the rest- you guys are really getting into this camera- very well done and thanks for the great info!

I really hope Casio comes out with a newer model with further improvements....thanks again guys!

Daniel,

I'm new to using Vimeo, so I have one follow up question: Is the Quicktime download link the file straight from your camera or does Vimeo alter, change or compress it when you upload it?

Can I suggest using ExposureRoom.con rather than Vimeo. ER supports 720p30 while Vimeo supports 720p24. That means the Vimeo folks delete 6 frames every second from your video so it stutters. Also a much nicer group of people to work with.

However, I have my doubts that the readings when you half-press the shutter button are the ones actually used for movie recording. I'll be running lab tests by RECORDING to actually test what is really being controlled.

Confirmed last night. In dark room readout was 1600, f/3.?, and 3 SECONDS.

Obviously a movie can't be shot with a 3 second exposure.

I could see the scene thru the LCD.

As soon as I pressed Record Movie, the LCD went nearly black. So the IP must have reset the shutter speed to the slowest movie shutter which may be 1/60th. (Sony CMOS seem to use 1/60th as the slowest.)

It may also automatically reduce ISO to 800. Why? Excessive gain noise may screw-up AVC compression so they may prevent it by limiting gain.

Bottom-line, what you see in the read-out is not always what the video is being shot at.

Therefore, the BS modes may not do in Movie mode exactly what the settings show.

This will require careful tests using charts to sort-out just what the video camera does.

Of course, one does really need to know. :) As long as one can lock AE and AF and set WB -- if you get good pix, be happy.

Nearly black movies -- why and how to avoid.

I've been getting too many all black movies when shooting indoors. Finally figured out how to avoid.

Do NOT press shutter-button half way. If you do and then press LOCK you'll get a black movie. It seems that when you turn on the camera, then press the shutter button half way AND the flash pops up, even if you close the flash or turn it off, somewhere in the camera it registers a flash "should" be used.

Now when you press Lock, the camera still thinks a flash will be used.

Then when you press Movie Record, it seems to calculate the exposure based on there being a flash -- which is both wrong (because you turned it off) and absurd for a movie.

Therefore, you should simply press LOCK and start shooting. You can use either MF or Continuous AF.

This only needs to be done in low light, but it can always be used. It saves pressing the shutter button.


PS: Interesting find. iPhoto can mount the SD card via USB. Now you see thumbnails of all your clips and stills. You can preview your clips. Select the items you want and the files are rapidly imported. (iPhoto will play H.264/AVC.)

Now in iMovie HD 06, you can drag in all clips from iPhoto Import Event into the Timeline. They will be converted to AIC. Now select all clips in the Timeline and drag to the clip Pane (Bin).

The advantage of this process is that one gets to review clips while they are still on the camera and then import only those you want. And, at the same time select the stills you want imported into iPhoto. Where they can also be used in iMovie HD 06.

By using AIC rather than H.264/AVC, even on a laptop motion is really smooth. (Blows away trying to work with AVCHD.) Export will be either AIC (to iDVD) or H.264/AVC (to ExposureRoom) or ProRes 422 (to DVDStudio Pro) or M-JPEG (to windows for burning BD with 5.1 sound).

PS: iMovie renders FX to AIC which is a major bummer compared to iMovie 08. The key question is how much quality is lost going through AIC.

Steve, Great tips keep them coming. I am looking forward to what else you discover.
I will check out ExposureRoom.

This looks like what is happening in the F1 also. I will test this chart against the F1.
http://ftp.casio.co.jp/pub/world_manual/exilim/en/ex_s500/BS.pdf

I just found this.
http://ftp.casio.co.jp/pub/world_manual/exilim/en/ex_f1/EXF1_BS_US.pdf

This is a major find! Wow!

Once again Japan supports its buyers while the USA division remains clueless. Just like the JVC consumer group.

By the way the "20" shows the number of still you remaining to take while shooting a movie. Not in manual. BUT, what settings are used for the Stills?

Steve.... I have both the d90 and ex-f1... unless you are desperate for the "film look" then go with the casio.

The nikon is just crap in my opinion... people who own it rock on about how the footage looks, but I don't think it comes close to decent 720p except for a few tripoded shots here and there. The jello effect is unusable and that is only the first of many problems.

The Casio, you can pretty much gauruntee 720p quality in most conditions. It is alot more video looking though, but at $1000 or so, it's quality is very, very good... not too far off my hvx200, especially in good light.


Hi Jay
I was browsing around and saw your comment on having both the F1 and the D90. I've been using the F1 quite a bit and trying to get the hi-speed down for weapon testing at 300-600 fps (had the fh20 but video was too small). Is there any definitive info in one place on using the F1? Also what is the prefered editing program, as the video is making some viewers dizzy even when played back in the camera. I have a D90 but havn't used it since I picked up the F1, I can return the D90 to Costco in the next 60 days. What are your thoughts on the F1 compared to the D90 for video? I have a HVX200 but am in the process of learning how to use it.

Hi Jay
I was browsing around and saw your comment on having both the F1 and the D90. I've been using the F1 quite a bit and trying to get the hi-speed down for weapon testing at 300-600 fps (had the fh20 but video was too small). Is there any definitive info in one place on using the F1? Also what is the prefered editing program, as the video is making some viewers dizzy even when played back in the camera. I have a D90 but havn't used it since I picked up the F1, I can return the D90 to Costco in the next 60 days. What are your thoughts on the F1 compared to the D90 for video? I have a HVX200 but am in the process of learning how to use it.

There is about ZERO info on the F1. I'm still exploring it.

I really like iMovie 09 because I can edit it natively (no conversion to something else) in REAL-TIME.

If there were tons more buyers I'd do a book. But, we are a tiny minority cause everyone thinks the Nikon simply must be better. It ain't, as we know, but Nikon sells anyway.

I have the F1 and use Vegas9 platinum for editing, everything besides the 1080i mode (doesn't look better than 720P but grinds my computer to a halt.).
No conversion, and in real-time as far as I can tell.
Works like a charm and is very user friendly for me as a beginner.
Se my testmovie at vimeo:

Slomo test in the snow and a bird in the end on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/3373042)

I love my F1, just waiting for some decent weather. The F1 was the only option for me, I used to have two analogue cameras, one Nikon F65 and a 8mm camcorder and the problems was that I usually took the wrong equipment with me. It's a decent still-image camera and an amazing camcorder if used properly. Thanks again Steve for all you hard work investigating this camera!

I just ordered the Casio ex-f1, and I probably will get the SteadyTracker UltraLite with it. Is it an ok combination? Will do some wedding shooting with them (not the whole wedding, just some footage). SteadyTracker is cheap and really lightweight, and probably will do the trick.

One other thing. I was considering of getting the Raynox HD-7062PRO (Raynox HD-7062PRO, HD-7000PRO 0.7X High-Quality Wideangle Conversion Lens for Digital Video Camcorder (http://www.raynox.co.jp/english/video/hd7000pro/index.htm)). It is an 0,7x wide-angle converter. It should fit the ex-f1 straight with the 62mm threads. Have I understood correctly, that when shooting 720p the ex-f1 has an agle of view of approx. 45mm? And when shooting 300fps it is 36mm? Therefore those numbers would be 31,5mm (720p) and 25,2mm (300fps) with the Raynox converter. Am I correct here?



edit: The Raynox website claims that the 52mm threaded 0,7x wide-angle converter DCR-730 would work too without vignetting (of course I need an 52-62 adaptor). It would be half the price: about 75€ vs. 160€. But will it vignette using 300fps video or taking 6mpix pictures? 720p should be fine, as it is approx. 45mm from what I've read.

http://www.raynox.co.jp/english/digital/pdf/CASIO_EX_F1.pdf
http://www.raynox.co.jp/english/dcr/dcr730/index.htm

I just ordered the Casio ex-f1, and I probably will get the SteadyTracker UltraLite with it. Is it an ok combination? Will do some wedding shooting with them (not the whole wedding, just some footage). SteadyTracker is cheap and really lightweight, and probably will do the trick.

One other thing. I was considering of getting the Raynox HD-7062PRO (Raynox HD-7062PRO, HD-7000PRO 0.7X High-Quality Wideangle Conversion Lens for Digital Video Camcorder (http://www.raynox.co.jp/english/video/hd7000pro/index.htm)). It is an 0,7x wide-angle converter. It should fit the ex-f1 straight with the 62mm threads. Have I understood correctly, that when shooting 720p the ex-f1 has an agle of view of approx. 45mm? And when shooting 300fps it is 36mm? Therefore those numbers would be 31,5mm (720p) and 25,2mm (300fps) with the Raynox converter. Am I correct here?


I'm not familiar with the SteadyTracker UltraLite, but please let us know how it works for you.

I'd go with the direct mount just cause it seems simpler. Your numbers seem correct and the 32mm would really be a big help.

The SteadyTracker UltraLite is really light and the EX-F1 isn't too heavy either. It should be a light-enough-combo to use for 20 minutes per hour. Or at least I hope so. :) I've read that SteadyTracker isn't optimal for panning, but I'll still try to use it for that. The next options are much more expensive, so I'll just have to see what kind of results I'll get with that combo.

EX-F1 will be my first video camera. It's time to see how a photographer can use his experience in the world of motion. :)
Here is a link to my website: Valokuvaaja Janne Miettinen - Häävalokuvaus, hääkuvaaja (http://www.jannemiettinen.fi/)

The SteadyTracker UltraLite is really light and the EX-F1 isn't too heavy either. It should be a light-enough-combo to use for 20 minutes per hour. Or at least I hope so. :) I've read that SteadyTracker isn't optimal for panning, but I'll still try to use it for that. The next options are much more expensive, so I'll just have to see what kind of results I'll get with that combo.
Nice work. But what's Trash the Dress?

PS: I found out when I though the F1 was broken because it wouldn't focus -- that even left turned off for weak, it holds the Manual Focus mode!

What good and easy editing program should I use with h.264 video? I think Avids and Sonys programs are too complicated for me, because I'm a beginner in video editing. I would use Proshow Producer, but it doesn't support h.264. One solution would be to convert the h.264 into something the Proshow Producer understands, but I would rather use some other program.

What good and easy editing program should I use with h.264 video? I think Avids and Sonys programs are too complicated for me, because I'm a beginner in video editing. I would use Proshow Producer, but it doesn't support h.264. One solution would be to convert the h.264 into something the Proshow Producer understands, but I would rather use some other program.

Vegas Movie Studio and iMovie 09.

I've done some experimenting with this camera, and I think that the Dynamic Range adjustment doesn't affect the videos at all. I too like the look that Contrast +2 and Saturation +1 gives to the videos.

I've done some experimenting with this camera, and I think that the Dynamic Range adjustment doesn't affect the videos at all. I too like the look that Contrast +2 and Saturation +1 gives to the videos.

It does. It raises the upper IRE from 100IRE to 108IRE which you can see via HDMI, but likely not after editing which limits peak to 100IRE.