and are upscaled to 1080 nicely.

Just insert your SD card to the PS3.



Thanks,

Johnnie

Hello Everyone,

As a new owner of the D90 I thought I would put it through its paces. I don't own a professional resolution chart so I printed one using a standard inkjet printer. Here are my results:

http://hv20.info/yopu/Chart-D90.jpg

http://hv20.info/yopu/Chart-D90.png

I have the originals if anyone wants them.

Also, though not demonstrated here, the rolling shutter makes the camera virtually unusable for video of anything moving or panning at even a moderate pace.

BTW I bought it for the stills, not for the video. For a good chart of the resolution of 35mm adapters like the Brevis, check out this link http://www.leonardlevy.net/Adapter_stills_master_Final.htm

-Robert

Wow. The aliasing of the D90 over HDMI is terrible. It seems that the camera sub-samples the pixels very badly to create the 1080 output.

This is really disappointing. Between the rolling shutter, the poor resolution, the poor codec, and the lack of a clean HDMI output, the D90 is really useless for video. The HV20 is a much better purchase in the $1k price range.

Nice stills though!

I downloaded sample from D90.

The sample is 720p24 OpenDML JPEG with mono at 11.025kHz.

I import into iMovie HD 06 and it becomes AIC -- but now at 30fps. (Audio is now 48kHz Stereo which is fine.)

Here's the weird part, it plays fine in a a 720p30 project. No pitch change. No stuttering. I've never seen 24p converted to 30p with no issues! Where did the extra 6 frames per second come from?

So I import into FCP with no conversion and drop it into AIC and ProRes projects each of which is 720p30. Everything plays fine. These 24p clips play just like 720p30 clips play.

So I import into iMovie 08. It imports fine -- which is very strange because iM08 doesn't support 24p!. And, again the clip plays fine with other 720p30 clips.

Next, into an Avid Media Composer 720p30 Project where it played fine.

So either these files are labeled as 24p but really have 30 frames every second OR 720p24 clips play fine in 720p30 projects. Which could be possible, but I've never heard of this being the case. Of course, I suppose the 24p clips could be playing fast and yet I can't hear the pitch change. But, if this is true -- why can't 25p clips be played in 30p projects?

Anyone have any idea what's going on?

PS: It's nice to know these AVI files can be imported by all OS X applications. Now if only the D90 had a mic jack. What was Nikon thinking?

Although I can't help think that someone will soon take their D90 to a camera repair guy and have him open the case. Then cut off the mic and solder two fine wires. Then bring these fine wires through the mic grill to a jack glued to the case. Shielding these wires will be the hard part.

FYI--a link to a new Videography Mag article on the D90--very nice.

Videography - Industry News (http://www.videography.com/articles/article_16348.shtml)

Enjoy.

--Robert A

Steve,

I don't know about the other apps but Apple made FCP able to handle multiple formats in one time-line around the upgrade to Studio 2. I'd been able to do that in Sony Vegas and it helped FCP stand up in the real world.

On the computer video playback frame rates shifts all the time in response to processor load, drive speed, etc. Open the info window (apple-i) while QT plays a file and you'll see the frame rate move up and down - lots. Still the video plays as "normal" and you don't perceive the shift unless it gets way slow and stutters.

All that changes when you render. Now the codec will make all files conform to your settings. Mixed format time-lines will get weird, sometimes in a good way, mostly not.

At any rate (pun intended), I like to convert the AVI file from my D90 into RS422 .mov format before editing. There are lots of benefits and the only cost is larger files (about 4x increase) and a little time (much less than the real time investment of ingesting HDV footage).

As for the D90 mic input problem... shielding the wires is not the hard part.

As you noticed, the D90 records audio at 11kHz. FCP likes 48kHz. Up converting audio does not increase the quality, it can actually make it worse. I recommend using a digital recorder capable of capturing a 48kHz audio file (like the Zoom H2 or better).

Yes, it's an additional step in the workflow to sync up the audio but it's my experience that it's worth it. You don't need to bother with cover shots and wide shots as you'll probably be using the audio track from another take anyway.

Plus, I usually strip the audio from my FCP edits, finish the tracks in Logic Pro then bring the mix back in under the original edit. Having decent quality original audio makes all the difference.

It's kind of like trying to use post-processing the correct a poorly lit scene. It's better to capture it right in the first place.

Which is why many people will never shoot anything serious with a D90 - they don't want to deal with all the issues. But I like it as a video capture tool enough to deal with the its quirks.

-a-

http://vimeo.com/2678129

I added a new testimonial video shot with the Nikon D90.
All but the Antarctica and wild life shots, made with this little wonder.
No CC, only a bit contrast corrections.

The more I work with the D90, the more I LOVE it.

Thanks, and all the best for the new year!

Johnnie

Johnnie,

If you have any tips that you have found useful, we would love to hear them! Thanks for sharing the clip!

Here are a few videos I shot for some color grading tests.. I also included the raw footage in the first video.

First scene shot with a 58mm F\1.2 an the rest with an 85mm f/1.4 Nikon lens. both manual focus versions.

it was a self test so the focus is not 100 percent. But close enough.


Nikon D90 HD Color Grading on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/3620192)




A client wants a colorized film-noir look. So I tried this style and they are going to go with it...

Alice & Martin's Wedding 014 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/344)

Got a chance to play with the new D5000. It definitely has a severe lack of manual control but you can do some cool things with it. Shot with a variety of lenses but it seemed to like the 12-24 the best. Check it out...

This is the new Columbus Clippers (Indians AAA team) stadium in Columbus, Oh
Huntington Park

Huntington Park HD version on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/5210397)

Hey all,

I'm gearing up to shoot my third short film on the D90. However, I'm only just discovering the various options with picture controls.

Right now I've got a version of neutral set up with sharpness +2 and saturation +1.

I was wondering what some of the more experienced D90 shooters out there would recommend as far as a setting that gets the most out of the bitrate artifacts/latitude wise?

Also I hear about color curves. What kind of software do I need for this and are there any recommendations for a curve to get the most latitude and the fewest artifacts?

Thanks!

All shot on the D90....


Depth of field tests and color grading...


Me walking around my backyard.

YouTube - Nikon D90 Color Grading HD video test3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkeX26aJcX8)


35mm F1.8 lens

YouTube - Nikon D90 35mm F/1.8 lens Color grading test (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgZLlU0tiVE)


Nikon 85Mm F/ 1.4 and my ugly mug.... color graded..

YouTube - Nikon D90 HD 24P Color Grading (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-f-VlmRSQ4Y)

Erick,

You're exploring some interesting concepts but I think you are taking the color grading too far. Color on skin tones looks way too "ruddy".

If your software allows it, try something to strengthen dark tones first, just enough to make the image begin to "pop". Possibly add a touch of increased contrast and then a touch of color saturation but stop well short of where skin tones turn ruddy. If your software has it, something like PhotoShop's levels command can be used for the first two.

Very subtle amounts can have a dramatic effect.

I've been doing a bit of testing with my new D300S, and just wanted to confirm something with the group: the "jaggies" that you see on angled subjects with the D90 appear to have been fixed.

My understanding is these artifacts come from the camera recording an 800 pixel tall image, then throwing away about every 9th line to get it down to 720. Does anyone know if the D300S indeed has a better way of doing it?

--Mark

a story on a movie filmed with D5000
not a big budget(producer money) but it show the trend for a lot young film maker.
he hopes to find a distibution deal.

Audios et vidéos | Audio et vidéos | Cyberpresse (http://www.cyberpresse.ca/photos-et-videos/audios-et-videos/?mediaid=538781#go)

Couldn't find any info related to audio compression, bit rate, etc. Did anyone?
Would we have enough quality for our films or separate audio capture is still a must??

http://www.youtube.com/user/syberfilm#p/a/u/0/sLaxyqZD6Hw


I shot this to do some tests with the Nikon D90.. I had no lighting and we used the audio straight out of the camera. No color correction.

Lens used was the Nikon 50mm F/1.8

I converted using h.264 at 720P.

This is some test footage from the Upcoming Anoop Desai Music video. Mostly behind the scenes shots and some test images of him singing.


YouTube - Anoop Desai at the Recording Studio (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVQhrK2IKGU)


I had to mute the singing until the song is released.

Shot with the Nikon D90

Lenses used

Nikon 50mm F/1.8
Nikon 35mm F/1.4
Nikon 85mm F/1.4

Fan Site
Anoop Desai - All Is Fair Debut EP (http://www.anoopdesai.com/)

This device called the LV-W1 Wireless Live View Remote Control, may be of interest for those of you needing a Live view screen off-camera:

Pixel Enterprise Co., Ltd (http://www.pixelhk.com/en/proview.asp?P_ID=1543)

It fits most Nikon DSLRs such as the D300s, D90, D3s etc, but I think it will also work on the Canon and Pentax DSLRs.

I will be doing a bunch of tests with my d90 over the next week or two. I am looking for a used samson audio recorder to use with it.

This may be the wrong sub-forum, but I'm posting here as fellow D90 users with experience can likely be more helpful to my cause then general advice aloof of HDSLR usage.

So here goes,

I can't wait to get my hands on a D90 (720p 24fps, I've played with one a bit) for my next movie, however there are limitations with this camera and I'm looking at maybe getting a companion camera. I'm using this lens because I have a good collection of Pro Nikon glass at my disposal.

Current I have a Flip Ultra HD (720p @ 30fps) which has its uses but doesn't have a zoom or any other regular camcorder function so it becomes a crash-cam where I want action really close to the camera where it my get damaged. So I'm looking at getting another companion camera, at least 720P. It needs to be inexpensive in comparison to the D90 which will take the lion share of video, this camera would be for slow-mo and fast pan shots mainly. Initially I was looking at the Sanyo Xacti TH1 for $179 (720p 30fps, 30x zoom) but it may be underpowered for what I need.

What are people's experience / suggestions?

Could you suggest a good 7" monitor for my nikon d7000?
Which Eye finder
Monitor
Shoulder rig support?

Thx

Hola,
just one question to you HDSLR gurus....
IT's long time i ve been using the HDV sOny cameras like Fx1,fx7, Z7 and since a couple of months when it happens i like to use my dad's new d7000.
For the picture is amazing and i guess so for the video. The image quality is stunning but i need your help on suggestions about settings:
-1: perfect (spring) sunny day, i set 100-200 ISO while with the sony i used to set 0 DB as Gain value.
Is it a good value for outside shooting 100-200 ISO? To not have DOF i uese to keep the iris of the nikon at f11.
-2: cloudy day with the sonys setting @9db of Gain how many Isos would you recomend? Iris?
-3: interior of a house very dark i used to set 12 DB but the noise begin to appear, so how many Iso would you suggest?
thx guys, but these are the new steps on the HDSLR world

The latest firmware update is available on the Nikon European website

Nikon D7000 firmware update 1.02 is now official | Nikon Rumors (http://nikonrumors.com/2011/04/24/nikon-d7000-firmware-update-1-02-is-now-official.aspx)

No 30p FPS??

Anyone using Premiere CS5.5 and experiencing jerky playback from their video files might like to try this quick fix.

The jerky playback problem is caused by the .MOV extension, simply change the extension to .MPG and the problem is fixed. Use Bridge, Batch Rename to change the extension.

Problem fixed

I am pleased to announce... no, make that THRILLED to announce that since upgrading to iOS5 and the latest version of the iPad version of iMovie, my native Nikon D5100 1280 x 720 footage now works directly in iPad iMovie! This is extremely cool! I have no idea if other cameras work now as well, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if several of them do. Other Nikons will I'm sure. I'd love to hear from a Canon owner trying this.

A few IOS updates later, now all footage from the Nikon D5100 works with the iPad, including 1080p at the highest quality! This may not be so unusual now. Video from several cameras I've tried now plays on the iPad and edits in iPad iMovie at 1080p. Very cool none-the-less.

Dear friends.

The new generation of VDSLR's is here and Nikon was kind enough to supply me with the D4 for filming my latest project, an image video for one of the most prestigious universities in the world, "the university of music and preforming arts, Vienna" (Universität für Musik und darstellende Kunst Wien | MDW | Universität für Musik und darstellende Kunst Wien (http://www.mdw.ac.at/))

Nikon D4 footage-University of music and preforming arts, Vienna. Image video project. Part 1 on Vimeo

My full report on the "work in progress" can be found in the Vimeo page


Thank you!


Johnnie

I'm enjoying my new Nikon D800, but I'm having a little trouble deciding on lenses. I played around with the Nikon 35mm f/1.4G today and I like everything about it except for the focus ring. It's very light/loose, and I don't know if I can get used to that for shooting video. Some lenses seem to have the best of both worlds: lightning-fast autofocus and well-dampened, smooth focus rings (e.g. my EF 24mm f/1.4 II and Sigma 85mm f/1.4).

I'm thinking about getting a Samyang 35mm f/1.4 in addition to the Nikon 35mm f/1.4 just because of this issue. (Well, and I bet it also provides a much larger turning distance for focus travel.)

Has anyone else shot video with the 35/1.4G? And if so, were you able to get used to the focus ring pretty well?

For stills/video combined work, you would be better off sticking to the non-"G" lenses. All of the earlier AF & MF Nikkors have wide manual rings and aperture controls on the barrel, and all will work on Nikon D800

I would advise you to buy a mint secondhand Nikkor MF 35mm f/1.4 Ais. Very sharp and smooth manual focus ring for video - a great lens!
The early Nikkor AF 35mm f/2 is also a good lens, although the manual ring was not very wide, and the MF version was better in that regard.

The Nikon Nikkor AF 28mm f/1.4D is also a superb lens.

In the Nikkor zooms that cover the 35mm range, the Nikkor AF-S 17-35mm f/2.8D IF and older AF 20-35mm f/2.8D IF lenses are very good and sharp optics - solidly made and nice handling.

Well having just picked up a PIX240 video recorder today, I got home and grumbled that I didn't have anything to shoot on it with. But then I remembered that my old faithful D300 has an HDMI output, so I plugged it in and started playing around.

The camera exports out a bunch of settings around the border of the footage, but there's a clean 1430 x 948 pixels in the centre which can be fairly easily cropped out and with the PIX240 able to record high quality audio to go along with the footage (albeit out of sync until I can figure out the audio delay to input). I now (inadvertently) have my first large-sensor HD cam!

http://i.imgur.com/VrNtW.jpg

And here's a sample (downressed to 1000px for web):

http://i.imgur.com/Jcxrw.jpg

Kinda cool I reckon!

I did the same thing with a D300 I had lying around and my nanoFlash. The only downside is that the frame rate is very low in HD mode. 5 or so frames per second. You also can't enable PsF or else there will be interlacing every now and then.

Hello -

If you setup the D800 to record to an external recorder via the HDMI port, is it able to record at 1080/60p?

Or will it only record what the camera's video recording settings are (1080--30p/24p....etc...)?

It does not record 60p, only 1080p30.

Governor’s Introduction | 2012 Heroes in Health Care Gala on Vimeo

Basically the Nikon D600 is taking a video of Governor Deval Patrick.

Hi all,

I have recently acquired a Nikon D800E, it works fine, but the ML-L3 Remote Controller does not work, battery is fine. Has anyone out there the same combination and does it work for you?

Thank You, cheers

Gerd

Got the answer - I have the wrong info, it does not work with D800E.

Lenses used?

I've been using a GH2 (hacked 88MPS) for over a year, and I'm pretty happy with the results in ideal conditions. However I'm finding the lowlight performance to be poor and as I was a Nikon shooter before I have a lot of 'Pro' Nikkor Glass (mainly FF glass) that when used with the GH2 using a adapter is troubling (that 2x crop factor makes almost everything telephoto).

So I've been seriously thinking about the D600/D800. For the money the D600 seems the better choice (unless someone can point out a serious reason why the D800 justifies a 50% more money on the video side of life, for photography I can understand it but I do less of that these days), D4 is outside my budget/willingness.

But I'm also concerned that I will see a drop in image quality, so that is of concern.

Is this a good idea or am I really just shooting myself in the foot?

There is the issue of the D600 not having the adjustable aperture and the 100% hdmi out that the D800 has. Both problems have been mentioned as possible firmware fixes, but who knows. I moved from the D7000 to the D600 and am pretty happy with the camera for video. You can use manual lenses for adjusting the aperture directly, or do a two step process with g lenses by getting out of liveview, changing the aperture and getting back into liveview. I don't have a D800, so I can't tell you how the video IQ compares between the cameras. I can tell you that the still image IQ is very nice and hardly worth the upgrade to the D800.

When I first plugged in my Sennheiser shotgun mic to my D4, I was still in AF mode and later I could hear the AF motor turning. I'm not with my D4 manual right now so can't check it, but can anyone tell me if you can shut off the D4 mic so you're only getting audio from the Sennheiser?

I'd appreciate any feedback.

Ron

Ran across this article at Eoshd.com. I'll be giving the Nikon V1 a little more attention this weekend.

Nikon V1 – shooting 4K 60fps raw for $200 | EOSHD.com (http://www.eoshd.com/content/9806/nikon-v1-shooting-4k-60fps-raw-for-200)

That is very cool. I started doing 4k a few weeks ago using the JVC 4k camera and D800 burst. Once you see how detailed these files look, even on a 1080p display, it's hard to go back to HD.

I'll be adding one of these to my collection.

The input should automatically switch to the external mic, however if you keep it too close to the camera / lens, you will hear its noise. If you have some sort of mount which is attached to the camera, noise will likely be transmitted through the body.

Hello everybody. I wanted to post my experiences with shooting with the Nikon D3100.

This is based off of my experience as a DP on a short film we just wrapped 2 nights ago. I don't consider myself an awesome DP. I DO consider myself as a couple steps ahead of beginner, but lower than a pro.

This camera is not marketed to me, and I didn't buy it. The director wanted to use it because he owned this camera.
What I liked:

1. The camera had a great feel and was very light.
2. The camera worked very well on a homemade steadycam rig.
3. The camera got the job done.

What I didn't like:

1. Exposure via changing F stops did not have real time display feed back. The display had to "think" about the change. Same thing happened when plugged in to my monitor.

2. Pushing the film via EV had to be done in a separate menu. So I couldn't see the results in real time. I would change the setting and then go back to check the visual.

3. The "M" mode (manual) is not completely manual. The camera was always trying to change exposure to insure a good image so you never really could tell for sure what your settings produced. I later found out, that in M mode, the camera would change the exposure in order to show you what it suggested. The suggested value is shown in () to the right of my settings. But again, you can't turn that off so you can't tell for sure what your getting for an image. Good news is that the camera produced an image (found on import to fcpx) close to what I wanted.

4. This camera HATES low light. I went for manual white balance and the camera could never get it. So I blew out the scene by removing all scrims & diffusion, set white balance, and then determined it would be better to use AWB! I don't usually trust it, but it worked well for this film.

Other notes: The location was a laundry mat with daylight fluorescents all on and 3 Arri tungsten lights. The Gaffer did not get any CTO or CTB gels, so that made an interesting color combo!

I told the Dir. I will work with the camera again, but if I'm finding its limits with my level of expertise, then please pay me to get you a better camera or buy a good used 5dMkII or rent something.
Other cameras I used in the past: Canon 5d MKII, XL1, XL2, Pana PDX200 (most of the time)

Well, the contraption is only 8 months old and I've used it maybe a dozen times and I have a bent pin. Sent it to Nikon and the estimate is 247.00. I've asked them to explain why it's not covered, but I think I'm swimming upstream. I have a D300 that has plenty of use, over three years and no bent pins. Infact, other than some ancient computers, this is the first pin issue I've ever had.

This is my heads up for my friends. Bah

Just got my new D7100 today. Video looks great but a bit jerky. I tried to force fixed shutter speed in P mode but got confused by camera behavior. I'm new to DSLR video. Can somebody share video settings and modes to use? Manual is very vague.

- 30p Video is not very smooth, much more jerky than 30p video from my HDV prosumer camcorder set in in 1/60 shutter speed. Any solutions?

- What exposure settings to use in manual mode? 1/60 and whatever aperture required? Can ISO be adjusted live or has to be fixed?

- What auto mode to use for best video when auto is needed? When set to S shutter displayed in live view jumps all the time, so not sure what's happening, shouldn't it stay the same? What shutter speed will give me smoothest video and how to force is on automatic mode so the shutter is fixed and ISO is adjusted automatically (aperture is not adjustable during shoot, I know)?

- What picture settings to use for video that will be graded and edited?

- What picture settings to use for family-type video that just needs to be the best out of the box ("cinema" look not required).


Any advice appreciated. Thanks!

Update: I just confirmed a very strange bug! I did some shooting today outdoors in the bright light and in the S (shutter priority mode) with shutter set to 60 as soon as switch to video live view, shutter drops to 30 and stays that way no matter what I do. It does not respond to any dials etc. Obviously camera can't change aperture, so it changes ISO to keep good exposure. But I can's set shutter to 60 in any other mode but full Manual (M). The camera always drops shutter to 30. Why??? Note that if I switch to Photo Live View (not video) then shutter stays 60 and is also fully changeable by command dial.

I can't explain it by anything but a weird bug. I would be OK if it fixes the sutter to one value, but it should at least be the best suitable value (60 for 30p video)! Or user-editable. Instead it drips it to 30 even in bright light. It's not just not optimal setting, but also makes even harder to use wider aperture as there's just too much light at shutter 30. It forces to use manual mode, but with no metering I can't even properly change it during recording, because it's hard to see in a bright light if your exposure is OK and there is no meter to tell you otherwise. Any ideas about how to solve it?

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Service-And-Support/Service-Advisories/h0ndzaip/EN-EL15-Battery-Recall-Service-Advisory.html


Yep, affects all my batteries. Oh Joy.


Please delete this one, sorry for the double post. I blame Mozilla