I'm needing a fill light for my XH A1. In researching the options I quickly go underwater when looking at the different products.

It appears that there are several power options for the different lights. I'm not interested in the power belts. I think the Adam West-style utility belts are a little derigeur.

Does anyone have any overview information on the different types of light options? I mostly shoot run & gun so something portable would be optimal.

Also, I mount my shotgun on the shoe as the dead cat fur gets into view when using the Canon mount. I know the light wants to be on the shoe too. What options do I have for this?

Any insight would be appreciated.

I recommend the Sony HVL-LBP LE light. It uses lomg lasting Sony batteries and can run all night long. It is a bit on the large and with a 8long lasting Sony 970 battery can be a tad heavy.
Sony | HVL-LBP LED Light System | HVLLBP | B&H Photo Video (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/475084-REG/Sony_HVLLBP_HVL_LBP_LED_Light_System.html)

So, its best to mount the light on the handle using a handle bracket like this one from VFGadgets:
HDV Handle Bracket | VFGadgets.com (http://www.vfgadgets.com/grip-camera/hdv-handle-bracket)

With the light mounted on the handle your camera will stay a lot better balanced, rather than using the cold shoe on the front of the camera.

Sima has some little rechargeable LED 20 watters out - really cheap on eBay from buy.com... so far I've been surprised for the price, they actually have decent throw and a relatively neutral color (not overly blue). For the $, they might be a bargain! I like the fact that they are small and "light". They are designed to interlock so you could build an array if you wanted, and I'm still testing to see how the built in batteries last, but so far so good - they say between 45 and 60 minutes...

Considering the price, not bad (can't afford the Sony LED, sorry... although their HVL-20x series is nice if you want halogen and a warmer light), and I'm fiddling with some diffusion options to spread the light a bit better and make them just a tad less harsh to look into.

Sima has some little rechargeable LED 20 watters out - really cheap on eBay from buy.com... so far I've been surprised for the price, they actually have decent throw and a relatively neutral color (not overly blue). For the $, they might be a bargain! I like the fact that they are small and "light". They are designed to interlock so you could build an array if you wanted, and I'm still testing to see how the built in batteries last, but so far so good - they say between 45 and 60 minutes...

Considering the price, not bad (can't afford the Sony LED, sorry... although their HVL-20x series is nice if you want halogen and a warmer light), and I'm fiddling with some diffusion options to spread the light a bit better and make them just a tad less harsh to look into.

After reading your post I searched and bought one. Wow this is no Sissy light, I think I paid about $28.00. Perfect for a lot of purposes. It's not as poweful as the Leds I've made but it's perfect for run and gun.
Thanks for the info
Gary

I've got two of the Sima SL-20LX LED lights. I usually warm them a little with a 1/4 CTO. After 8 months, or so, of frequent use, a solitary LED bulb has 'gone' on one of the units. The wire connection to the AC adapter is also a bit flimsy so you have to be careful with it. Otherwise, I think it's a great light for the price.

The Sima offers a lot of bang for low dough... and they interconnect so you can build an array out of them to top it off. I've now got a couple of them, and two definitely punches up the light output significantly - mounted on a dual bracket with one light to each side, they are plenty effective, and at under $100 for a pair... IF you can find them, they seem to be constantly out of stock!

At the price they are close to disposable compared to the other solutions out there.

I'm looking at the Bescor LED 35, which comes with a filter kit. I have started a thread asking for feedback about them, but I suspect this is a new item.

What about the Litepanels Micro, a smallish and light-weight LED that runs on AA batteries, dimmable and with the necessary filters? Seems a good alternative for handheld cameras.
Litepanels | LPMICRO Micro LED on Camera Light | LP-MICRO | B&H (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=542007&is=REG&m=Y)

What about the Litepanels Micro, a smallish and light-weight LED that runs on AA batteries, dimmable and with the necessary filters? Seems a good alternative for handheld cameras.
Litepanels | LPMICRO Micro LED on Camera Light | LP-MICRO | B&H (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=542007&is=REG&m=Y)


The Micro puts out a fine quality of light but it is flimsy, easy to break and the filter holder from the factory is defective, it doesn't hold filters very well. Also, if you whack the Micro against anything, there is a good chance to snap off the light head. Fragile unit that ends up being semi-disposable.

The LitePanels Mini, OTOH, is excellent, I love everything about it. Rented one for a job a few months ago and it was killer, I want one.

Dan

Hmmm, while the LPMicro is fragile, in the 9 months or so I've been using mine it's been banged around and even dropped and it keeps on ticking. Not quite sure about the filter holder being defective mine seems to work fine and I've got a very early serial number. I use both the diffusion and 1/4 CTo and it works fine even when I open it up outside to use the light without the filters. I have to admit it is more fragile than my AB Ultralte and the Frezzis I've used but I broke a Frezzi once too so I guess anything can happen.

Don

what about this one:
Bescor | LED-35 On Camera Light | LED35 | B&H Photo Video (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/576021-REG/Bescor_LED35_LED_35_On_Camera_Light.html)

I recently bought the Swit s-2000 camera light.
I'm well happy with it.
Good spread of light, no dark spots, wide enough for my EX1, 5600k LED's, 3200k filter, runs off d-tap,dimmable and well built.
I also bought the swit battery for the EX1, which has d-tap, so it powers the light and camera.

Paul.

Well.... in terms on "on camera" lights I have a NRG tungsten light, the Lowel Prolight tungsten version adapted for use with 12V, and battery packs for both. Barndoors for both and the full range of lowel filter holders, scrims, dichros etc.... but I gotta tell you.... I read this thread and ended up picking up some SIMA IR units as well a the LED units referred to above (SL20-LX)... all I can say about the little SIMA's is WOW. The units are small (about 2-1/2 inches square.... and come with a bracket to connect to the camera base tripod mount.) They are multiple unit stackable too. All in all just too cool to describe, especially for about $30 per.

I HIGHLY recommend you buy a couple and throw em in your bag for emergencies (if not everyday fill use for the run and gunners). The light output is impressive for the size, as others have said. Not only can you use them as "on camera lights" for fill in those run and gun situations (like even during the day!) but as kickers in shoots!

Me ? I bought 2, and am going to get a few more to put away. They charge up in a few hours and seem to do ok for about 30-40 minutes of continuous on time. I think they fill a nice niche in anyone's kit bag for lighting.


I'll do a separate thread on the IR units, but same goes for them if you have a IR equipped camera.

Chris Swanberg

Don Bloom,

I am with you on the LPMicro...I have used as a fill, rim light, and run and gun. It is a lot of bang for the buck, a use anywhere light. Overseas I used it to great advanatage. The AA power is also a plus, especially in a 220 Volt environment. Yeah, it is a little fragile, but if you don't abuse it, the Micro will give lot of service.

JH

Glad to hear from Chris that I'm not crazy... the little Sima lights are worth a look. I did a full charge-discharge cycle test, and got just about 50 minutes of light use - they take a while to charge, so if you need more time, you'll need more lights, but considering you can buy 6-7 of them for less than any ONE of the "pro" lights, they certainly seem like a bargain. A pair looks to kick out quite a lot of usable light, even a bit better than just one!

I still like the Sony 10/20W units with diffusion, they are a bit warmer, and you can get bigger batteries pretty cheap, but the Sima SL20's are small and light and really seem to do the trick. Well worth buying a couple just for having around. Still want to cobble up some diffusers, but pretty amazed at how versatile the little lights are.

It's very exciting for me to know that there are now so many players in the LED ENG+ lighting scene. 5 years ago when I complained about the lack of interest in making LED camera lights, my whining was met with dead silence on the Illuminations forum chorus . Now everybody's singing the same tune!

Here are some point to consider when buying LED based camcorder lights.

Output Baby Output
Don't be fooled into thinking that a 20 LED cluster of the teenie tiny sub $50 hobby video lights variety will be enough. Most prosumer/pro camcorder lighting has to compete, not with total darkness, but in many cases, with a substantial ambient illuminations level that has to be filled or otherwise supplemented. A good test of a single ENG light's usefulness , is to camera mount it outside in broad daylight. With a back-lite 'talent' , can the camera mounted light provide enough main illumination to bring a face out of the shadows. If it can at an exposure setting that holds highlight detail in the background - you've picked a winner. Very few single fixture camcorder lights can compete with broad daylight that way- even at 8'. Indeed, I often need two of the most powerful LED based lights to meet the challenge effectively. Reflectors help.
Illuminating total darkness is a different matter entirely. That's where any light is better than none and the more illumination the better. If you're shooting an indoor event and you're at full aperture and 1/30 you can probably make good use of the smaller, weaker LED lights. Realize that to balance a 5,000K LED fixture such as the LitePanels Micro indoors with tungsten incandecent, you'll probably attach the Full CTO filter to achieve color harmony. That act will cost you 50% of your light's output. That's another great case for bigger, more powerful lights.


Beam Profile ( AKA coverage, Signature, Illumination Window)
This is the scene coverage in degrees (º) Horizontally as well as Vertically. Without going into excruciating detail, not all lights cover the same angle, nor do they need to. Obviously, you start by asking questions about the function of the light in question. In 3 point, it's going to either be a main, fill or accent light. For ENG/Interviews at 6'-10' your on camera LED light can be the main or if ambient is predominant, the fill. In some cases it will simply provide a catch-light to liven up a face.
These days you have two main choices- High Flux emitters (Rebel, Seoul,Luxeon) or 5-9mm Nichia types. The High flux emitters feature lambertian beam patterns that are very conducive to management via either a reflector or an optic, designed to modulate the beam for an intended purpose.

Which type is best for the Videographer?
The High flux fixtures such as those used by the LED-Z ( LEDz lighting, maker of LED Lighting Fixtures for Entertainment, TV, Film, and Theatre (http://www.led-z.com) ) family of lights are the easiest to control, allowing for user imposed changes of beam angle. I like the LEDz Mini Par because I can mount a 40º optic for standard Interview lighting on camera or use a 25º or 8º for spotlight or accent lighting purposes. The narrower beams are also handy for giving the light distance 'throw'.
The 5-9mm Nichia types are those pesky pinto bean sized 1/2 Watt emitters that tend to be clustered together to form mini or maxi banks of light as in the Litepanels LP-Micro Camera Light fixtures. These types are excellent WIDE angle lights if properly designed in BIG banks. Think of them as mini window lights or effect lights. The low wattage emitters are very efficient and though they put out much fewer lumens/watt than their High flux cousins, they typically have longer runtimes and lower voltage requirements. In addition, 'Panel Lights' can be used to simulate computer monitor or TV illumination as well as provide Main, Accent & Fill lights for table-top shoots.

Color of LED lighting
Most current LED's are sorted (somewhat like diamonds) by color of output as measured on the color spectrum. Without going into detail, videographers typically prefer to start with either a 3,200K, 3,400K or around 5,000K light, which can then be filtered as necessary to harmonize with ambient light . Some of the more sophisticated fixtures contain a blend of Amber and White LED emitters, allowing the user to vary the color temperature of the fixture's output with a dial. In other case, the LED emitters contain die (not dye) components that allow for a myriad of color outputs using computer programmed and dial controlled 'mixing'. This is really the future of video lighting- not gels.

Photon Management
This refers to the process of modulating the character of the light than emanates from the source. Mini reflectors, optics and diffusers or defraction gratings are used to change angle and to diffuse the beam.
Again, I like High Flux fixtures because they offer the widest range of possibilities for the videographer. Unfortunately, these fixtures, sporting the brightest Seoul P7 emitters, for example, can be beyond the low budget Indy shooter. They are however the best value for the money, as manufactures often charge far more for fixtures using the little Nichia emitters than those $5.00 clusters are cost to buy on the street. Should the videographer care? Probably not.
HINT- buy from a manufacturer that plans an upgrade path for their systems. Currently, most of the high flux fixtures are just a soldering iron away from a reasonable upgrade path. Some manufacturers (Lupine Lighting Systems) offer plug in modules that anticipate advances in the LED designs of the future. Indeed, we've already upgraded our Lupine 'Wilma' twice in two years. Oddly enough, Lupine Lights are for Bicycles not Camcorders- but that's another story.

The Future
Some day, if it has not already arrived, we'll have LED based lights that are wirelessly controllable and that may even be linked to a camera's ( RED?) controls to allow for camera controllable set lighting. Till then, it's nice to just have something portable, efficient and of a consistent output and color temperature & CRI to get the job done.

M.P. El-Darwish - Imago Metrics LLC

While i haven't used the LP Mini, I have to give a thumbs down to to the LP Micro.

1. It's really weak. More than a few feet, forget it. For events and weddings, too bright spoils the mood, but this light isn't even close t that.

2. It's blue. I have used it with the 1/2 CTO that comes with it, and the results were semi-acceptable after some CC, but the background was orange. Using a full CTO, there isn't any output.

3. You go through a lot of AA batteries. Using Alkailine batteries, the power drops off after an hour. (It's hard to see, just looking at the light, but your EVF will let you know). I imagine it could be better and more steady longer with some good rechargeables, but frankly, I don't have time to bother.

4. The dimmer is nice, but I usually want to dial it up the other way, and there's no there there.

I have had much better results with the halogen Canon lights, and with them I can use the same batteries as the camera. I'm looking for a similar light with a dimmer and barndoors.