Okay, follow me here. Let's say I have a shot where people are moving around in the frame, and I'm following them with the camera, while it's mounted on a tripod. Simple enough, right? My question is, how do you keep it perfectly still when it's NOT supposed to be moving? You can't just take your hands off the camera and tripod, because it will drift slowly over time. You can't discreetly lock it down, and then unlock it, etc, because the motion of touching the locks will jar the tripod ever so slightly. What I try to do is lean over the camera, with one hand on the pan arm and one on the lens, to sort of balance it, but it's hard as hell to keep perfectly still like that. What do you guys do?

I have a sachtler DV4 system, by the way. Do I just have to adjust the mounting plate cause I'm a moron and I have the camera balanced incorrectly?

Do I just have to adjust the mounting plate cause I'm a moron and I have the camera balanced incorrectly?Err.. yes. <g>

The DV4 does not have the pan/tilt calibration adjustability of the DV6 or DV8 so this may be a bit tricky. But, when set properly, that camera should remain exactly in position without being locked-down. With the XL1 you may find that you need to add weight to the back to keep it from nodding-off.

You're talking remain in position whether it's tilted up or down, regardless of angle?

Yup, that's what I be talkin'.

Once you find the best plate position mark it with on the plate.

Josh,

I use a manfrotto 501 fluid head, i have found with my pd150 i just needed to push the friction points up nice and tight, i like it to fight back at me... then i can leave the camera without actually locking it, but it evenly moves without my effort, and smoothly when panning or tilting.

Maybe you can do that.

Zac

Friction points? What do you mean? I have the pan and tilt locks, and the settings for the fluid drag, which is already at its highest. I was told not to use the pan and tilt locks as "drag controllers," as it could eventually mess up the tripod.

The Bogen 501 operates differently than the Sachtler. It's a friction-based head. The Sachtler uses tension springs to provide counter force.

1. Completely lock both axis knobs as hard as you can for each shot.

2. Get some sandbags, or some sort of weight and throw it in either the center of teh spreader or , one at nearly each corner of the tripod where teh spreader meets the legs.

3. After you get a general frame. Only move one axis at a time to adjust.

4. Invest in a monitor and use that to make adjustments and use the eyepiece sparingly.

5. Make sure you move the eyepiece out as far as you can from the base so that when you are viewing it, your head isnt up against the camera opening it up to the possibility of being knocked.

6. Make sure your camera is tightly screwed to the base plate.

I don't that particular tripod personally, but with the ones I use I never have any trouble with that particular type of thing. I use an ancient O'Connor 50 and a Gitzo 1338. With the O'Connor, it's easy to make a move and then lock it and let go if you want, with no motion. Same with the Gitzo.