Hah, hey guys... maybe 'cheap' and 'car mount' don't go together, but I had to ask. I have a scene I need to pull off, and don't know how to rig the camera. Two guys talking in a car. I want a couple shots from the hood looking into the windshield, and some from just outside the passenger/driver windows. I saw a place online (lost the URL) that had a suction mount kit and everything, but it was over $1,000. The car won't be travelling very fast (30 mph MAX), and the camera (DVX100) is only about 4-5lbs, so is there a way I can build a rig, or buy a cheaper setup? Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks.

Also, I read through the post "Filming with your camera attached to the roof of your car?" (http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3454&highlight=car), but didn't find any info relative to my problem. They had tons of ways of mounting it inside, or through a sunroof, but I need it mounted outside, on the hood and/or side-doors.


Moore

I think you might want to read this thread http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&postid=25120#post25120 and check my reference to the Bogen suction cups. Ron has a link to a photo of his support system. I would try something similar on the hood of your car. Secure it witha coupe of safety lines in case it comes loose.

Jeff

Hey Jeff,

Yeah, as I mentioned I'd read through that thread. I had actually checked that out, but wasn't sure on the weight limit for it. It'd be almost perfect if it would support my camera on one, cause I could get the Bogen #3294 mount, and the #2934 for attaching the camera to it for about $100 total. That'd be a pretty nice setup. The thing I wanted to avoid, was having to buy 3-5 of them, with a huge mounting rig.

Another interesting Bogen product, is the 3292...
http://www.bogenphoto.com/product/templates/templates.php3?sectionid=92&itemid=339
I don't know if that would support it either, they don't list any weight limits for any of these.

Or, the 3289, listed max capacity as 6.7lbs, includes a brace that goes down to the floor for support... that might work for in car shots.

I can't find any specs on the #3294 suction cup though, as far as weight load. You said you believe they were at 8-10 lbs? Because that should plenty. I wasn't sure, because you said 8-10lbs, but then said he should use several of them to support an XL1. Anyway, let me know if you have any exact specs on this, or info on a mounting bracket to attach two of them.

Thanks for the info, you're always good for helpful posts Jeff.

--Moore

Here's a couple of ideas. The Bogen #3289 http://www.bogenphoto.com/product/templates/templates.php3?sectionid=92&itemid=333 is said to support 6.7 lbs. It also comes with a stabilization brace.

I recommended 2 of the #3294 because i believe they support slightly more weight and the built in swivel socket will make it easier to adjust the camera. Also, a fully loaded XL1 can weigh close to 10 lbs. with lens, batteries, matte box etc. Better safe than sorry. Two gives you a safety margin.

Jeff

Hah, yeah I mentioned the #3289 in my post... didn't you see that? I found that when looking up the 3294... looked like a cool option for in-car shots.

Now, do you have any information on how to join two #3294s together? I couldn't find any hardware on bogen's site... maybe I'm just missing something. Thanks.

Moore

I would get the two larger clamps and head to Home Depot. The clamps have a provision to lock a stud into place (see picture). The stud locks into place by the thumb screw on the side. I would get a couple of threaded studs (bolts) and washers and nuts at HD. I would also pick-up a 2x6 and some bungee cords and nylon rope.

I would drill the 2x6 for the studs and fasten the clamps to the 2x6 using the studs, washers and nuts. Use the bungee cords to fasten around the supports and attach to the wheel wells. Use the nylon rope to secure the whole rig to the car.

I would use the Bogen 3063 head and attach it to the 2x6. Drill the 2x6 and attach using 3/8 inch bolt and washers and nut. If you have a different head, just substitute your head. You might want to consider the 3295 quick release. it comes with metal wire you can use to secure the camera to the 2x6 for security.

Jeff

How do i mount a camera onto a car roof, have it secure so i can drive fast and do crazy things in the car.

My camera is a pd-150 and i have to shoot a police chase scene from a roof, so well here i pose my question.

Zac

This is usually done with suction mounts. For an example you can
look here (http://www.b-hague.co.uk/Mounting%20Brackets.htm). Keep in mind that things fly through the air
(like insects and such) which you do not want to splat on your
lens. So best to add an UV filter to your lens first.

Also don't do anything stupid in the car. Stunt driving is not
for the faint of heart and takes a lot of practice/instructions.

Keep it safe!! Please.

Soft racks!!!! Go to a surf shop and get a set of Ocean and Earth soft racks. These strap to the roof of your can and you can strap your camera to them securely. You might have to play with them to get the camera totally stable but they are a good place to start, and cost only about $30

Just get a wideangle lipstick lens, a long svhs cable and some gaffers tape. I shot a 4 min chase scene in december and mounted this bad boy on the bottom of the front fork of a stunt bike. Awesome looking footage. I hooked the lens into a cheap sony digital 8 stuffed into a waist pouch of the driver and it would've been impossible to get that footage any other way.

Sticking a big camera like a pd150 or XL1 on a moving vehicle is asking for trouble if you don't have a super secure mount.

Now before anyone chimes in about quality differences, most chases are just cut cut cuts. You can get away with murder in the editing bay (but not in the shooting. ;) Camera angles are more important than the quality differences, which in this case were minimized due to careful post processing and colour correction.

In test screenings, I've had more than one person gawk at that footage, and it was like 5 mins to setup.

If you were really bent on it, you can get angles that no other camera can get. My advice to really sell speed is to get that camera as low to the ground as possible. I've shot stuff out of a sun roof, and it doesn't sell speed, even when going past the posted sign limits. Stick that lipstick lens under the front bumper for real cool photography.

Adrian

i got a shoot from inside a car coming up

the camera will be held via a suction pod on the door glass and wound down to poke out at fresh air.
car will be travelling at around 30mph

my questions are

what the best shutter speed for this?

should steadyshot be used?

I'd stick with 1/60th. A fast shutter might give you that strobe look, probably not what you want.
Experiment with the steadyshot. I'd assume it would be useful.

I would definitely say keep steadyshot on. The only time you should have it off is when the camera is stationary like on a tripod.. a suction pod is kind of stationary, but the car is moving so it's probably going to move around a bit.

Yes, use the steadyshot; it will help absorb some of the vibration you'll get. Use the standard shutter speed for your camera, unless you want a special effect. A slower one at that speed will give you strobing and some blur. There is one cool effect you can do if you want...use a really slow shutter, like 1/8, and if you're going the same speed as the object you're shooting, it will be sharp and all the background stuff will be blurred. I've never tried that from a car but have done it hand held.

I've seen a few exterior video car mounts and I'm puzzled. Has anybody ever used one of these contraptions? I thought that the video camera electronics components can't take the buffeting of a car mount, i.e. every time the car hits a dip the pictre gets momentarily snowy or "squiggly" (for lack of a better term). Not to mention the damage to your camera from the contant banging. Any thoughts? I'm scared to death to put my XL1S on that thing.

I'd be worried to, but there's not much to worry about, as long as they are used correctly, they are pretty strong.

About the image getting "distorted" everytime you hit a bump, thats not really the case. Plus, you want to use these on a nice smooth road on a nice smooth riding car, anyway. Not like your going to attach one to a 4x4 and take it offroad...hopefully.

I used to work at the Sony store, and there was this guy that used to tape his camera to his RC car and take it off-roading...
The footage was great and I never saw any problems with the image. I have seen this on older cameras though, not sure what is different now a days.

I made a mount that bolted to my front bumper and to a couple of fender bolts under the hood and set a brand new Sony DSR-500WS on it. The actors drove the vehicle down dirt roads at speeds up to 55 mph. No jitter and no camera damage.

Greetings

I have search the sight and can not find a camera mount for large cameras.

I have a big project comming up to shoot the new Manteo corridor in the Outer Banks of NC. We will need to mount the camera to the car while driving the corridor. The smallest camera we have is a sony DSR-300.

Is there a good place to rent a rig for this shoot. I don't want to buy one for a three day shoot and never use it again afterwards. The camera is about 20 pounds with all attachments.

I am thinking of just pulling out the four inch tape, spread the tripod legs low and just attach it to the roof of the car. I know that tape will hold it but it will look silly driving down the street. I have a wide angle lens but I am sure the picture would be jumpy hooked up like that.

Any ideas welcome. I am sure we can't get much worst than taping a regular tripod to the roof.

Possibly use a pickup truck with tripod secure in the back close to the cab. That way you could be with the camera. It would be fun but just be careful.

does the car have a sunroof? if so, prop yourself between the front seats and pop your head out of the sunroof. but of course, be careful...good luck.

Looks like we will be taking a station wagon. No sunroof. We may have access to a truck. That will make the camera a little safer but we will still have to deal with the shaking camera. I was hoping to find a mount with some sort of stabelizer or something.

FilmTools builds a tri-suctioncup car mount that can hold 50 lbs safely

http://store.yahoo.com/cinemasupplies/mewecarmo.html

But, it all comes down to the speed you're travelling, and the terrain.

I made a car mount for my van about 2 years ago so we could shoot a 10 minute short.

Perhaps a picture and desctiption will be of interest.

http://www.byvideo.com/Mike%20Rehmus%20pictures.htm

So that was you eh..... Nice rig! Wouldn't mind to see some of
that footage!

I don't know if the footage is on the Web or not. The short was made with Hollywood actors but the writer/director may have pulled the clips since he is getting so much publicity for his new feature, American Yearbook. His was the first feature to complete principal photography using the Panasonic 24 fps minicam so everyone is all excited.

I'll ask.

Come visit me at NAB Booth C4543 (Varizoom) say hello and have a look at the new CarRig (Updated photos at www.dvtec.tv)

It has 3 suction cups and 4 safety straps with hooks.

DvCarRig - 499 USD
Extension Arm - 100 USD
Pro. Ball head - 100 USD

Danny Natovich.

or, filming from the hood/front quarterpanel of a car? We can't screw anything up, and we cant spend much. Anybody have any "bootleg" or not so expensive solutions?

rent. It's not worth messing up the car/camera trying to improvise cheap solutions. Plus, it may be something you'll never use again. There are a TON of great and safe car mounts out there, even ones that seem like piecemeal. The simplest solution is a saddlebag, hi-hat, and ratchet straps. Other solutions use purpose-built suction cups and grip heads and arms. Most large rental houses can ship if you're not in range of going yourself. Either way, make sure you get good instructions on how to properly set the system.

One EXTREMELY important thing to consider is the safety of others. It's one thing to drop your camera and rig and mess up your car. It's an entirely different matter to cause damage or injury to someone else. A quick drive through town for a 2-minute shot may seem quick and easy, but make DAMN sure you have things secured and triple checked. Any time other peoples' lives, as well as your own are on the line, it's worth it to do things correctly and have good safety procedures in place.

On set with experienced grips, it sometimes seems ridiculous how many times they radio to one another to call out simple things or how many times they check rigs. They also (often) refuse to rig certain things for safety reasons most of us would consider marginal. But getting in a habit of proper safety procedure is a way to make it automatic so that no details are missed when it comes to more dangerous rigs.