Few turned out pretty good. But As soon as I have to move the camera to chase the fast moving cast then things get ugly.
Chris, you haven't gotten back to me with the account here, so I will post it on my dotmac site for now.

http://www.onebikeguy.com/Kakugyo/Podcast/Podcast.html

Opps, one important thing, as Sanyo and other reports said, 1080 won't play on Mac, yep, it doesn't work for now. I did shoot some 1080/60i shots but not posting because I can even see them to trim.

Hi Kaku,

if possible please send some low light, night shots
and lens flare (vertical smear test) with 1/1000 shutter speed

Robert,

I don't think there's a way to keep the shutter speed set to 1/1000.
With the preset (sports?), maybe it will keep it at "higher" shutter speed.

Anyone, am I right on this?

Edit:I found the parameter to set to set shutter speed. It was in the exposure parameter and you can change them to program, shutter speed, iris and manual.

Wit all of the parameters set to manual, it started to shoot a lot better video.
Although I made the white balance, shutter speed, iris, ISO at manual position, the preview on the LCD changes its display brightness while adjusting and that really throw you off, but once you start to shoot video, then everything stays at the values you set manually.

I shot some new ones and planning to post them tonight.

I will talk about intentions and work around for the each clips there.

I'm breathing a sigh of relief that you're finding that the video's looking better. I really, REALLY hope Sanyo's gotten it right this time. Thanks for your early review.

The cam is good as long as you limit the camera work to be minimum, zooming, focussing (which is impossible to control manually while shooting).

I personally want to take little larger camera around with better video controls like manual focus, faster access to the shutter speed and iris. It is pain to do any decent video type manual controls while shooting. It is made for consumer, so they are trying to make the auto adjustments work better, I guess.

I told Sanyo sale person that they could make professional version with higher price tag. If this thing at least had lanc control for better zoom and focus control, I would buy this cam right away.

On the other hand, for onboard shooting, surprisingly H.264 is doing good.
How I mount a cam to my bike, HDV results in unbearable compresssion distortion, but as long as you mount this steady on the bike, HD1000 is doing so much better at 720/60p.

iWeb's podcast scheme won't hold many clips, so I moved the clips to the album page.

http://www.onebikeguy.com/Kakugyo/HD1000/HD1000.html

Edit: the movie page function doesn't even work right neither... the windows are not showing the clips....
But if you click on the file name below the clip window, then it will download or open in a new browser window.
When I get serious of making sites with iWeb, I always get disappointed every time.

okay, I guess iPhoto works better.

http://gallery.mac.com/kakuito#100071

You can subsribe to this page to be notified as I post more clips.

Kaku, I'll get the upload account info to you today by email.

Just got back from HK where I bought the camera, upgrading from a HD1.

Initial impression is that this is a slight improvement over the HD1 (namely 1080i and better low-light) but the shortcomings from the HD1 persist.

Autofocus still hunts a lot and the imiage stabilizer is next to useless, alebit a bit better when panning.

The color from the VIDEO is indeed muted as mentioned in other reviews.

Biggest annoyance for now is the blue halo around highlights, outright ridiculous! Any bright light or it's reflection in a shiny surface has an intense blue halo. I can not recall ever seeing it so bad on any digital camera in the last 5 years.

On the positive note it is cpapble of generating some nice footage when the conditions are just right, similar to the HD1.

Why did I upgrade? New gadget and better low light handling, more comfortable overall use.

Will try to post some footage once I find some time...

Do you think the "blue halo" effect would be eliminated by use of a lens shade?

I am afraid not. A lens shade is designed to keep stray light from entering the lens assembly. The blue halo effect is within highlight areas of the picture itself.

The blue halo is probably due to lens design and/or sensor problems.

My hope is that a firmware update could lower the blue halo to an acceptable level.

Even mobile phone cameras have long overcome this problem.

Daniel--Any other thoughts on the camera now that you've had more time to play around with it? Found ways around the blue halo effect?

Well, after a couple of weeks with this camera I can say it is quite OK. The major headache I have is with the blue fringing in high-contrast areas. I believe it is due to the sensor and thus may be improved with firmware upgrades.

When editing and transcoding the footage to WMV-HD (Vista's MovieMaker actually works quite well!) and watching it on a 50" Plasma I have to say it is one amazing picture! In moving footage the blue fringing is visible, albeit less "in-your-face" than in a still. As this was all done in FullAuto, it may be possible to reduce fringing via manual settings...I'll have to try it.

Does anyone have any FAST motion shot with this camera?

I'm still hunting for an HD car/bike mount POV camera.

So is there a difference between the "blue halo" effect and the "blue fringing" effect" or are they one and the same?