Exactly how does one make the UV filter into a piece of ground glass? What tools are needed and what is the step by step process? The timing used for each grit, et cetera?

Can someone make a list of all these things and where online one might purchase this equipment for the best price?

Don Mahr
 

No, I don't think so . If you try that way, it's gone a take much more time,but what I can suggest is to use a exinting gg and refine it whit the 500 .

Alain

tagged

Hey Alain, you have mentioned that it is possible to sand/grind the already existing gg. You think it is a possibility to sand down a gg (using aluminum oxide) such as the one from an old zenit slr camera? I think the gg that is from a slr camera is adopted to a fresnel lense so i am not sure if it is possible to sand it down anymore. Your thoughts?

Also did anyone here have to deal with taking out the gg from an old zenit (philip?). I am having little trouble getting this thing out of this piece of heavy machinery.

UV Filter to Make GG
 

Has anyone found the brand of GG that Alain has taken apart to make his GG?

I have a DVX100 and it is 72mm.

Thanx Agus and Alain for all the info.

Alain ALDU35 Videos
 

If you want to I can host your videos off of my site. Send me a email.

taylor@moorefilms.com

Taylor Moore
 

I have use a cokinlight 58 mm Skylight but watch out some cokin
are removable and some are not. Probably the older one are better for this.

ALain

Taylor Moore
 

Ok.
I just look at the spec of your camera and understand that it's not your lens but the filter diameter.

So is it more difficult to find some filter of this size?

Alain

Grind
 

It is quiet here tonight, are everybody grinding? :-)


Alain

Alain: Just ordered my aluminum oxide today. I'm very eager to get started.

Anyone else out there making or planning to make one of these for a Canon GL2?

,Frank

I'll team up with any XL1 / XL1S owners on this as well.

I'm still not 100% sure on the whole process and procedure so I'm holding off ordering the alum. oxide.

Can you post your sample video again?
 

Sorry, I didn't have the chance to view your sample video.
Would appreciate it if you can post it again.

Frank, where did you order the aluminum oxide

Hi all (first post :))

I've been watching the developments with excitement!

As an XL1 user myself I've begun work on a static groundglass mini35 homebrew system. As demonstrated by so many with successful agus35 and similar implementations (and now Alain's static GG success) the most difficult part of a system for the XL1/XL1s is the relay lens and hopefully it's smooth sailing from that point onward (essentially an SLR body arrangement with finer groundglass).

I have designed a relay lens that should get our 36x24 35mm filmback size down onto a 4.8x3.6 CCD with suitable backfocus distance and object distance from the front element. I've ordered the lenses and should be getting them soon, if it's successful I'll share my design and findings with everyone.

(Check out LINOS Lens design software (free!!) at http://www.winlens.de)

I don't expect stunning quality, but hopefully my lens should work (anything else is a bonus! :)) and made with cheap surplus singlets and achromats from surplusshed it's a cheap and easy start. (If it works maybe I can get a thread of my own! :D)

Happy development!

Adam

Woah!
 

Phew! It's taken me half a day to read through all posts on the Agus, the other static adaptor and now this one. I'm not keen on messing around with motors, so Alain your adaptor seems to be the one I am going to try!

I was thinking I may try inverting the image with another lens. I know there will be reduced light, but it will be interesting to see how much can be gained back with post production levels tweaking. Will that much light really be lost? Many times when I shoot in daylight I have to use an ND, or even two ND filters anyway to avoid whites being blown out. If I was shooting inside a house etc I would normally use extra lights anyway. So using an extra lens to invert the image before it hits the ground glass might be useful in this type of situation to avoid having to flip in post. I was also thinking of mounting my Optex 16:9 adaptor on the front of the SLR lens via a step down ring as I will only want to shoot anamorphic with such a system.

Am I mad? Or is there a better way to do anamorphic with these systems?