Nail Polish
 

For the outside, people were discussing they couldn't find a paint that adheres to the PVC pipe. I would think nail polish would do the trick.

I was looking around for a PVC paint solution and found this:

http://www.azcentral.com/home/garden/articles/0125patio25.html

Excerpt from the article:
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"Krylon, the aerosol-paint maker, has developed a Fusion line of spray paint for use on plastic surfaces such as patio furniture, kids' play equipment and - should you care to paint them - PVC plumbing pipes.
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.
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DETAILS: 1-800-457-9566 or www.krylon.com. "
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May not be the solution, but I don't think it has been mentioned yet. (Someone mentioned Krylon plastic furniture paint, I believe, but this 'Fusion' line may be different.)


Also, here's another link for a different product:
http://www.qbmdistributors.co.uk/H&SCOSHH/Tech%20PVC%20Paint.htm


,Frank

why not just use black pvc pipe?

A lot of people want the 'flat black' look, as opposed to the shiny plastic.
Still, I think that using black PVC, as you suggest, but sanding and painting it flat black, would be better than painting white PVC.

I'm going shopping for some today (currently, all my stuff is held together by duct tape - HA HA!), so I will try and find some black pipe.

Thanks!

Black PVC pipe is better than white for sure but all of the pieces may not be available in black. Not to mention we need a FLAT black finish. Im still going with flat black aluminum but for everyone thats doing PVC starting with black tubing may be a real good idea because you only need to lay down a very thin layer of flat black paint. Just make sure your threads are consistantly hold the adapter together firm enough after you find focus. If it flexs at all you will have moments of out of focus shots.

Plus - the main reason for all of this painting is optical. If you have too reflective a surface on the *inside* of the pipe (even shiny black plastic), the light bounces around in there and 'milks-out' the image. Just like when you look at your ground glass before you put it in the tube... all of that extra light coming in the side really screws things up.

We want the insides of all of these tubes to be a non-reflective as possible - very very flat, roughened black surface, or better - cloth like velvet. The insides of some cameras are lined with black velvet for this reason.

Of course, the outside has to look cool :)

Also, as mentioned, it has to be a lint-free solution (the inside part). I think Brett mentioned his workaround for this, which sounds like it will work well.

Absolutely - as Brett mentioned - our sensitivity to dust and crap is very high... any kind of fabric is likely to be a problem. His idea of hiding the GG behind another filter sounds good to me-

After R&D is over, I hope to go with aluminum tube. But PVC for now, with the black rubber/plastic coating seems to work well.

For now I'm having more trouble getting quality GG. I have tried the grit and polish that comes in a rock polishing kit. It puts very fine chips in the glass which comes across as dark spots. I will order the aluminum oxide and give it a try. I wish I knew of a place to order 2" round GG. I think this will be the biggest obstacle to a quality image.

Did anyone remember where those threaded aluminum tubes can be found?

Also has anyone found a specific condenser which works on the camera side of the GG for getting rid of the hotspot? What I have (a close up lens 10+) is ok, but not quality. I still have a hotspot.

Brett seems to be the only one with alumunim tubes, but his sources remain unnamed :) (he said he had them fabricated).

Here's the best I've found...

http://www.northcoastmetalmart.com/60altu2odx1w.html

They specialize in 'hobby' projects, so they don't mind orders in the 1 foot range.

Not threaded, but an approach to this is what I'm doing with PVC - get a step-up ring which male side is the same diameter as your ground glass uv filter (I'm using 52mm) and the female size wraps snugly around the 2" outer-diameter tube... (50.8mm is the official inches-mm conversion, but pipes vary somewhat - my 2" pvc coupling is much bigger and works best with a 58mm step-up).

At any rate, you can JB Weld the step up to the end of the unthreaded tube and presto - fine-threaded metric threads as if designed for cameras :)

Other advantage - is you can easily unscrew it to clean/replace your ground glass.

Aluminum Tubing and UV filters
 

Aluminum tubing that has a big enough I.D. with a fine metric thread has been hard to find. Im sure they exist but as of yet I havent found ones that are ready made. What you can do is have someone take aluminum tubing stock and cut threads into them. Make sure you have enough threads to expand the difference between the flange focal length of still photo lens and motion picture lenses as it is greater than what a stepup ring can provide. Even better would be sometype of lens housing minus its optics or a adjustable length extention tube. Both would have to have large I.D.'s especially on the camera side of the GG.

Also your extra UV filter (the one you use to block the dirt from getting on your ground glass) should have a antireflection coating on it because it faces right at the ground glass.

-Brett Erskine

Does anyone know of a link where I can find out the actual inner (female part) and outer (male part) diameters of various step-up rings? The local stores are not too thrilled to open sealed step-up ring packages to let me measure them :).

Also, I've read a few recommendations where it's advised to place the condensor lens in front of the GG ( i.e., SLR Lens -> condensor -> GG ) and NOT behind it, to minimize reflections. Has anyone tried to compare these two cases in practice?

I've been trying to keep this project cheap, but I realize that I do need a closeup filter. Obviously, I need a two element solution to cut down on the chromatic aberration problem, so I think I've about decided on this:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=77546&is=REG

Anyone else know of something cheaper? What about the Hoya filters...anyone using a 58mm achromatic diopter other than the Century Optics brand?

Thanks!

The +10 Hoya's are generally a better deal at about $70 but ideally you usually want to get a diopter no stronger than you need in order to avoid moving your GG back farther away from your camera to make up the difference. Getting the right kind for your camera will make sure your adapter is as physically small as possible in the end.

-Brett Erskine

Jonathon Wilson where are thoughs condenser FL numbers?

Dude - I"m still at work. I think I've been at my house for a total of like 6 hours total in the last three days. You'll get 'em once I actually see 'em :)

Brett: I found an old post where you had a link to some of the Hoyas, but the ones in that price range weren't two-element, where they? I probably looked at it wrong.

Also, what strength would you recommend for a Canon GL2?

Thanks!

Send me the link or check out the part number with Hoya. Since I have a DVX100 and not a GL2 I dont know. Im pretty sure the info as already been posted. Otherwise your going to have to go to your local camera shop and test diopters out yourself.

The problem is that I'm in south Mississippi. Not a high concentration of camera/video equipment suppliers here. I'd sure like being able to walk into a place with my camera and try stuff out, though.

Here is the link in question:
http://www.2filter.com/hoya/hoyacloseup07.html

My only option - the two-element adapter in 58mm size - only go up to +5, and are $111.63.

Frank, here's a good link for achromats:

http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker/closeups.html

It also tells you how to calculate the focusing distance when adding a diopter, so you can figure out the lowest value that's useable with your camera. Like Brett says, go for the lowest value necessary to avoid spherical aberrations.

I appreciate that link, Roman! Looks like a lot of helpful info at the bottom of that page.

Thanks!

Frank I checked out your link. Thats the same price as I've seen for the Hoya +10 achromat macros but just call up the Filter Connection and ask to make sure.

Please bear with my ignorance about optics.
There is all this talk about FL, help clear a few things up for me.

SLR lens -> GG -> Condenser -> -> Macro -> DV

OK I know that FL is important here
SLR lens -FL> GG
so the image on the GG is in focus.

and I understand the basics about different color waves acting a little short or long in relation to each other.

But is FL important anywhere else in this setup

Maybe here
SLR lens -FL> GG -FL> Condenser -> -> Macro -> DV

or here
SLR lens -FL> GG -> Condenser -FL> -> Macro -> DV

Is the condenser flat side right up against the GG?

Will the Hoya +7 or +10 work as the condenser?

Thanks

John

<< But is FL important anywhere else in this setup >>
IMHO, no. As long as you can focus onto the GG image (with macro or without, depending on your camera), you're OK.

<< Is the condenser flat side right up against the GG? >>
IMHO, yes, but Alain had his condensor with convex side up against the GG.

<< Will the Hoya +7 or +10 work as the condenser? >>
Sounds like a great idea to me. The +10 diopter's focal length is 1000/10 = 100mm, which sounds about right, although I don't believe that condensor's FL is that important, since you put it right against the GG.

fresnel & fresnel VS condenser lens
 

Some one have a idear which is the best fresnel lents to use .
I find few on edmund optics website
whit Effective Size diamater of 2" but different type:

IR fresnel
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=2042

Aspherically Contoured Fresnel Lenses
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=2039

PCX visible fresnel
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=2040

some one test both solution to avoid hot spot : frenel & condenser

some info best solution

last question..

some one test whit boss screen ???

Ciao

Read my previous post (RMPP) as to why no one is using fresnel lenses anymore and are looking at condensers.

My order of 1000 grit aluminum oxide arrived from The Rock Shed today.

I got a new piece of glass, made sure it was clean (and made sure the two oxide sizes didn't get mixed), cleaned the ground glass, and started grinding with the 1000 grit. Immediately I felt something bigger in the mix while grinding. Felt like a grain of sand or something. So I cleaned the surface and the ground glass and found some very noticeable cuts on the ground glass.
I started the whole process over, and repeated this four or five times. It seems that the 1000 grit oxide from the Rock Shed isn't pure 1000 grit. I haven't heard anyone else complain about this, but I thought I'd mention it. I had to go back over the glass with 600 grit to get rid of the scratches.

Brett: Thanks for checking that link out. I will give them a call and find out. Thanks!

Frank-
Have you tried Aluminum Oxide 9Y? Alain recommends it and from my research it seems to be the finest grit you can get. Anything finer actually polishes instead of creating a ground surface. Do a google search to find it.

Also Im using two UV filters that have a multicoat finish to reduce internal reflections inside my adapter housing. One UV is for the GG and the other is right behind the 35mm lens to seal the adapter from dirt getting on the GG and coming into focus. The coating may be over kill but when I saw the two filters facing eachother before the GG I thought there could be a possible reflection problem. Getting UV with multicoating in a 55mm size is hardly a big investment and at the very least worth the piece of mind. Make sure they also have the removeable retainer ring so you can take out the glass to grind it for your GG.

-Brett Erskine

Thanks, Brett! I'm going to check into that 9Y stuff now.

Yeah, I thought that was a good idea that you mentioned earlier about the 2 filters. I likely would not have thought about that reflection problem. Thanks!

,Frank

Rockshed grit worked just fine for me...

- jim

glass cutting workshop
 

i just find a glass/mirror cutting workshop and asked a guy is there any possibility to use "1000" aluminium oxide in his workshop and make me a GG. no problem, since he is already making some matte glases for the kitchen/bathroom furniture. next day i received nice GG. (it's 52mm diameter from UV filter) deal was 5$. no scratches, nothing. maybe this is not proper way to do it (this is definitelly NOT a DoItYourself case), but it looks this will work for me. will check with the adapter any day...

filip

Scratches from 1000 grit AO
 

I've been messing around with the 1000 grit AO I got from the rock shed for about a week. I too experienced the "mysterious scratch" phenomenom early on. After some investigation, I don't believe the AO is the culprit. It is pilot error. You have to keep the grit well hydrated (lubricated) and you must constantly move the piece you're grinding around on the grinding surface. Here are some guidelines I follow now and I'm quite pleased with my results.

1. Minimum 8"x10" glass grinding surface (keep the glass filter moving to new areas of the grinding surface)
2. More water than you think and less AO (the AO should be suspended in the water on your Grinding surface, not a paste. There should be enough water for each grain of the AO to be seperated from its brothers)
3. Use light, even pressure for grinding (don't get into a hurry)
4. If you feel a change in the friction, STOP! ADD MORE WATER!
5. Wash away the used AO often and add fresh AO and water. (I think the waste glass is binding with the AO and is baically creating little bits of sand.)

I hope this saves someone some time.
I'm waiting for a set of experimental plano convex lenses to test with my static and dynamic adapters. I really like the way this adapter is shaping up.

Brett,
I'm looking to buy a DVX100A. Are you developing your adapter for the 100A or the 100? I understand that the "A" has a much shorter minimum focus. What strength diopter are you using? Thanks, Joe

High-Def Cameras with Aldu35
 

Hi all,

Please note a new thread dedicated exclusively to Hi-Def Digital Cameras (not DV) with Aldu35 adapter.

It's here:

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthrea...408#post154408

LINK
 

Very nice link for DoF

http://www.dof.pcraft.com/dof.cgi

i was wondering if i could purchase a custom Aldus35 off one of you experts!

Joe-
I have the DVX100 (not the A). With the DVX100-A better minimum focus you will only need about a +10 diopter for still lenses. Buy only ONE Hoya +10 achromat diopter. Your still going to need more than one diopter if you plan on using cine lenses. I havent done test with the DVX100A but if I had to guess right now I would say you need a total of about +13. Get the A if its about the same price. Should make your adapter just alittle bit smaller than with the regular DVX100.

-Brett

I was gonna put some footage up but I decided to screw up my GG, accidentaly broke it in half. Whats a good quick source for UV filters? BestBuy?

anyways...no footage :( but before I broke the GG the footage looked outstanding, I just HAD to try to get the GG finer...then broke it.


I havent been all-stop though. Here is what ive done in the meantime. I made this rail dealie., this thing is rock solid.

pic
http://aequantum.com/DSCF0003.JPG

John

The Century F to C adapters appear to be on back order probably due to demand from miniD35 enthusiasts. I will try the more expensive Nikon version that is still available.

Griding conenser
 

some one try to grind direct one condenser lents ???

i mean

____________! condeser lents whit grind on flat size
____________v___macro
SLR lens ----> [) () ----> dv cam

JUSTE like Nikon type D focus screen

less stop lose one glass less

another question:

if i use condenser lents whit flat surface directed to SLR lens

BFL (back focal lenght) shut bee the same as SLR focal flange ???

see image at http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1747

I've been following this thread the past few days. This is amazing stuff going on. But I have one question. Is ground glass absolutely necessary? That is, is it an essential part of creating a DOF lens adapter or is it for aesthetic texture purposes only? I would love to get going on building one of my own but I'd prefer getting the cleanest image possible and adding grain/texture in post - the depth of field adapter being the only thing I care about. Is the ground glass essential? IF not, how would this affect the setup so far?


thanks for your time and commitment, and kudos to everyone.