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Hi everyone,
I stumbled onto this topic about a week ago and I've been very interested in trying to make one of the Agus 35 adapters. About a year ago I did alot of research into the P&S Technik adapters but it was out of my price range, however I love the shallow DOF 35 mm lenses give the image. I decided to give the Agus35 a try. Here is my experience so far. The camera I am using is the Sony VX-1000. I figured that the 2 big problems I would encounter would be how to attach and center the motor to the spindle base and how to attach the cd to the motor.. I purchased the motor at Radio Shack for a couple dollars. It runs off of 2 AAA batteries. I also bought a small on/off switch. Underneath the spindle base I used thin wood so I could mount the motor to something rigid using 2 machine screws that screw into the bottom plastic of the motor. Next, with the motor secure I soldered the wires to the on/off switch and batteries and centered the plastic spindle bottom to the wood using 4 wood screws. This basically serves as a fastener for the 3 tabs on the bottom of the spindle housing which holds the housing secure. Next using a hole saw drill bit I drilled a 72mm hole through the bottom of the plastic and wood to accept the lense of my VX-1000. I'm planning on attaching a 72mm filter ring to the outside of the hole to make fastening the camera easier. I then attached the the cd which I sanded using 400 grit sandpaper bought from Home Depot. To center the cd on the motor I used parts from an old cd burner that I took apart. I then taped the piece of hardware in the center of the sanded cd. The hole in this hardware accepted the motor shaft and the cd centered perfectly. Next I drilled a hole in the top of the spindle housing to attach the 35mm lense, covered it with black duck tape to block the light and assembled the base,sanded cd, top housing,35mm lense and vx-1000 together. With all the pieces assembled to my amazment I saw the upside down image in the spinning cd with all the elements of shallow DOF. When the cd spins the image begins to take on a hologram effect. All thats left to do is capture the image with my camera. A couple things I noticed: A 25 pack spindle did not work for me because the spinning cd was to close to the 35mm lense to give me a usable image so I had to go with a 50 pack. This gave me just about the right distance to see the image in the cd properly. And also I had to use my set of close up macro filters in order to be able to zoom in and still be able to focus my VX-1000 on the image on the spinning cd. The images seem to be very dark. Is this normal? Its still a work in progress. I'm gonna post some pictures of my device soon as I figure out how to post jpeg files to this board. Sorry for the long post Bye for now Thanks , Mike |
Ahhh...
You posted right before I was going to point out, that I cannibalized an old CDROM. (note: even though it was only a 12x, it worked, and I felt strange pangs of guilt taking it apart...I think I paid $60 for the thing originally)
Anyway, in the middle of the guts, is the spindle that "captures" the CDrom when the tray slides in. (it's really rather ingenious how these things are built). The spindle is mounted so it slides into place in the cdrom's center hole as the tray shuts. After removing the spindle, there was another piece, a round plate, that is built into the cdrom housing, that is magnetized. When a CDrom is on the spindle, the little suciton-cup shaped thingy sticks to it and holds it on. As Mike mentioned, the radio shack motors fit onto the spindles rather easily. BTW...the one part of this process that I lack is an SLR lens. I've seen several used ones for sale fairly cheap. What sort of focal length should I get. I've seen variance from 25mm through 200mm. Jeremiah |
jeremiah, start with a 50mm, that is the standard size... basically it will mimic close to your natural eyes perspective of vision.
Zac |
I just finished my 'Agus35'. I found an old Sony Walkman, used the motor, epoxying it to the blank CD. there seems to be virtually no vibration. Also used a lens adapter, which I epoxied to the rear of the CD case for attachment to the camcorder. The sanded CD captures the image perfectly! My camcorder - a Panasonic PV-DV-400.
Next upgrade: ground glass. Thanks to all for this great project and extremely helpful information. |
<<<-- Originally posted by Noah Posnick : Could anyone please give some recomendations for a "macro filter" for the Canon GL1 that will allow me to keep the camera focused while zoomed in at a short distance. -->>>
Century Optics makes 2x, 4x and 7x macro adapters. They do not come cheap, though -- $210 from B&H. I'm making an Agus35 Pro for my GL-1 without a macro adapter. I'll let you know if/how I get it to work. - jim |
<<<-- Originally posted by Yang Wen : What is the concept here?-->>>
The concept is that you use your DV camera to record a 35mm image suspended on a semi-permeable screen. That's it. How you get that done best is up to you, though Agus's method is a good one - use a clear disc that is sanded to a 'frosted' surface and spin it through the beam of light passing through a 35mm lens. The disc suspends the image in mid-air, for your miniDV camera to focus on. You set the focus on your DV camera manually, and use the 35mm lens to pull focus with. Some thoughts: People seem to be thinking of ways to upright the image and confining their answers to the adapter. Why not use mirrors mounted via a hood on the LCD screen to upright the image? You could sand the disc irregularly, leaving gaps that are entirely clear, or place black tape on the disc, too. With this you might get some interesting strobe effects, like the lower shutter speeds on the Sony cams. The disc could be multi-colored, or you could use multiple discs of different colors instead of filters. - jim |
My minolta lens are 50mm 1:2 and i get no vigneting.
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So this clear disk has to be in a light proof casing correct? Otherwise, the outside light would bleach out the projected image from the SLR lens. Correct? and how far should this spinning disk be from your Camcorder lens? is it dependent on the camcorder lens and better done with a trial and error strategy?
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check out this lens, you can also have zoom, and it have a good aperture size.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...u=61424&is=REG |
My ghetto attempt
Ok I grabbed a fake CD thing from my spindle and got my Sigma 35-135 AF zoom lens and just held the two things up in front of my DVX100. I had the DVX's lense focus into macro-mode and the CD was in focus but As you can see, there is incredible vignetting. It seems I can only get a small round image to project. What is the trick of having the 35mm lens image fill the entire frame?
http://www.umich.edu/~ywenz/DVX/GhettoAttempt.wmv thanks |
Re: My ghetto attempt
<<<-- Originally posted by Yang Wen : Ok I grabbed a fake CD thing from my spindle and got my Sigma 35-135 AF zoom lens and just held the two things up in front of my DVX100. I had the DVX's lense focus into macro-mode and the CD was in focus but As you can see, there is incredible vignetting. It seems I can only get a small round image to project. What is the trick of having the 35mm lens image fill the entire frame?
http://www.umich.edu/~ywenz/DVX/GhettoAttempt.wmv thanks -->>> Hey, why you call it Ghetto ?? it should be Agus35 :) Ok, you got several problems... first, you need to use the whole spindle plastic case, cause that will not permit the light from outside to ruin the image in the ground glass... then... you need to adapt a Magnifying glass to the dv camera, so in that way you will get more of the image projected, then you need to close as much as you can the GG to the camera lens... http://altoque.tv/maserati.wmv Take a look to the second 20 of the video, and the last scene, and there is no vigneting Check it out, it doesnt have too much quality but i really dont have any time, working a lot with a 3d spot. Mike, you can email them to me also... check my profile for my email. |
Agus, that's the best footage yet. It really looks like film, especially the last shot. This thing will be amazingly useful for making short films.. I mean there are big problems trying to follow a car as it speeds round a track (good work on that by the way) but in a scene that you've planned out it'll be fine..
Yang, you need to understand how the adapter works. Your DV camera is effectively being used as some sort of telecine unit - its only purpose is to capture the image created by the 35mm lens. It's like ghetto telecine - videoing your film footage as you project it against a wall. That means the only thing you need to be able to do with your video camera is zoom and focus until the image fills the screen. Also take the camera completely out of auto mode, so there's no gain, no focus problems, and a standard shutter speed. Next you need to understand what's going on with the lens and the housing and the spinning cd. The housing stops any light getting in. Just like an ordinary stills camera - the only light you want coming in is the light that comes in through the lens. The role of the the sand-papered CD is to act as a projection screen. It's like the film in a stills camera - it's where the image from the lens is focused. The reason it needs to spin is so that you get rid of the grain caused by sanding the cd. So what you're doing is using the 35mm lens to create the image - to zoom, to set the exposure, etc. And you're using the video camera to capture this image. By the way Agus, have you experienced the "spinning vortex" that mini35 users refer to? Kieran |
You can email photos to me and I'll put 'em up here at dvinfo.net -- here are Richard Mellor's images:
http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmtopview.jpg http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmsonywalkman.jpg http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmlensadapter.jpg http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmcdepoxied.jpg http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmrearview.jpg http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmcloseupmotor.jpg |
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Concept - As I understand it.
Stage One Subject being videod/filmed >>> via SLR camera lens >>> onto a semi-opaque screen (like a rear projection TV screen) positioned on the lens focal plane --- the same position the film would be if if the SLR lens was mounted to a camera. (This is a focal plane for that lens.) Stage Two That image (like a projected image) on the semi-opaque screen >>> via video camcorder lens >>> onto 1 x CCD chip or (3 x CCD chip array) To get that image to appear large enough to fill your video camcorder viewfinder, you may have to use a close-up lens or if that is not powerful enough, make up a relay lens to get the camcorder to focus on the projected image sharply enough. The relay lens might be something like the eyepiece out of a telescope. I have used a lens set out of a 42mm telescope eyepiece and placed that between the camcorder lens and the projected image for another similar application. SUMMARY: There are two stages of focussing. The SLR lens focussing sharp onto the semi-opaque screen. The camcorder aquiring a sharp image of that projected image. You are taking a picture of a picture. This is not realy the most efficient way of aquiring an image but --- from this point is where it gets interesting. You just can't get a frosted glass texture fine enough to display the image from the SLR lens sharply enough. If the texture is too fine, then you can see through the glass beyond the focal plane into the guts of the SLR lens and through that all the way to your subject. So all you see is a bright hole. If the frosted glass texture is too course, then all you see is a pattern of rough pits and scratches colored vaguely in the form of the image. If you try to look through a raindrop blinded windscreen on your car or the wire mesh on a screen door, you discover that if you move your head about, you can see through the obstruction. P&S Tecknik, cleverly worked this principle by moving the windscreen instead of the viewpoint. You are not looking at your subject through the groudnglass screen with the Mini35 adaptor, you are looking at an image projected onto the groundglass screen which is made to seem finer by being moved faster than the camera can see its rough texture. The Mini35 adaptor moves this screen by spinning it across the SLR lens focal plane. Agus' earlier prototype as I understand it rapidly moved a screen back and forth across the SLR lens focal plane. The Mini35 operating notes tell you that you must keep your camcorder shutter speed selected slow so that you do not freeze the motion of the rotating screen and thus detect the frosted texture on it and spoil the image. I hope this has not confused you too much. |
That's a very good description indeed.
I'm still not sure if a relay lens is strictly needed. With the original mini35 and the XL1s it was simply more practical to take advantage of the fact that you could remove the XL1s' stock lens - it makes everything less bulky. The only problem with optics for the Agus35 is being able to 1) focus the image 2) zoom until it fills the screen, which, as people are discovering, can be difficult to do simultaneously. I'm thinking about using some kind of sliding close up filter between the XL1s lens and the cd so I can experiment a bit with zoom and focus. Only a week till I start work on it :o) Kieran |
About connecting it to our cameras - this has become a major concern between my video compadre Spencer Houck and I. We're both concerned about the best way to secure this beast to our cameras. I noticed someone had a 58mm thread glued into the back of the spindle - I had that same idea, but since this thing is a little front heavy methinks it'll put a lot of strain on the threads. It might not be such a idea to secure it that way and warp the threads, after all, I really do like the ability to switch adapters and filters!
We were thinking more along the lines of a bayonet mount (for those of us that have lens hoods). We tried looking for a place that sells the lens hood alone for the GL1/VX2K, but alas, no dice. I think it's an important issuse, I'd like to hear what others have to say - esp. those that don't have a bayonet mount. How do you do it Agus? |
I used WMV 9 to encode the footage, if you do'nt ahve Media Player 9, you can't view it. Sorry.
On the mount... I guess you can also constructut a plate that attaches to the Agus35, that your camera screws into. That way, the weight is not on the mounting threads to hold the entire assembly up. It'd be a big unit all together, but it would give you more weight and would resemble a film camera even more! Wow i suspect if I can get a 3D model of this Agus35 caseing made, I can use the prototype machine at my school and get a 3D copy of it printed. Then somewhere on campus I can get copies of this thing made. Perhaps get a two piece design that screws togeether, compelete with the holes to accept adapter rings? |
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<<<-- Originally posted by Devin Doyle :
We were thinking more along the lines of a bayonet mount (for those of us that have lens hoods). We tried looking for a place that sells the lens hood alone for the GL1/VX2K, but alas, no dice. I think it's an important issuse, I'd like to hear what others have to say - esp. those that don't have a bayonet mount. How do you do it Agus? -->>> I use a metal piece that connects to the tripod hole in the camera, so the whole piece is more stable |
try to make a metal skeleton from the camera to the adapter
BTW those rings looks beatiful, but how is that you will lock your lens ? you need a release button like the SLR camera have. i am about to post some footage, but i am low in webspace... |
I'm about 1/2 way done my Agus35 Pro :)
I picked up a black "project box" from Radio Shack yesterday ($6.99), and a few other miscelanea...a switch, some wire, 9v batteries, a 9v battery clasp, etc. I spent about $18 total. Then I went to Home Depot and picked up some epoxy ($5), a length of scrap 1/2inch PVC piping (for support rails - $0), a velcro strap ($5), and to attach the camera to the Agus35, a 3"-3" adjustable pipe coupling ($5). I've got the other parts here already - an old Sony disc man, a clear CD from a spindle, and an array of cutting/drilling tools. Incidently - if you plan on making more than one of these things, there are 54 and 57mm diameter dremel bits at Home Depot, that fit into a standard drill. Might be perfect for lens mounts. The Radio Shack project box (dimensions: 8x6x3 inches; fitted back) is the perfect thickness for lens mounting - you just cut a hole the size of your lens, cutting notches where the lens pops in, and give it a twist - presto! Preliminary pics: http://ideaspora.net/box-front.jpg http://ideaspora.net/inside-rear.jpg Agus - email me if you need server space for footage. I've got a dedicated server with room to host plenty. - jim |
Yeah, the lens mount worked out OK, I guess. Little rough around the edges, but...it does lock into place.
Bob, over at Indieclub.com, advised using a F-to-C mount adapter to mount the lenses. You wound then just have to mill a hole in your adapter box and then you could switch lenses freely. He also suggested using a chroziel matte box to connect the camera to the unit. Here's an F-C mount from Century Optics, costing $60. Here's the link to the thread I've started, including Bob's advice. - jim |
I some people have been concerned with flipping the image in post. Maybe you could build an adapter that would "hold" the camera upside down??? Would this work??? Agus, have you tried this? I realize that you would not have accessibility to all controls, but as I understand it you get the camcorder dialed in and leave it alone....just thinking out loud....
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That is the most ridiculous, absurd, WONDERFUL idea I think I've ever heard -- just mount the camera upside-down! That might actually work! And it'd give you a hair better picture quality because you'd eliminate the need for mirrors and prisms!
You'd have to use an external monitor, because your LCD and viewfinder would now be upside down, but that is a cool idea! You'd also have to rig up a mounting system so you still had a tripod socket, etc... Not sure I'd want to show up in front of a client with it, but for guerilla indie filmmaking, that kind of thinking is the bomb! |
Here is a tip for those that have too much trouble shooting inverted... flip a little the lcd screen just after it turns to mirror mode, in that way you will be able to get a corrected image.
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agus35
hey agus, things are really moving along here, way to go.
just thinking out loud here, but maybe a couple simple design changes ( inspired by looking at an actual mini35, size and shape ) could help solve a couple of problems. it seems to me that the gg in the mini35 is most likely the size of a silver dollar ( say 4 to 6 cm in diameter ) and most likely set at a 45 degree angle. if this is the case then you would be taking a picture of the image created on the side of the gg that it hits, instead of through the gg, seems this would make a big difference, in sharpness and luminance. the gg's so small you could go with glass instead of plastic, this also would be an improvement. this would also explain the vortex thing with the mini35, which i think we could get rid of by vibrating the gg instead of spinning (hmmm, where'd i get that idea, think orbital sander ). you would need one more mirror ( top of box/ unit ) and a relay lens ( maybe this would take care of the flipped image, not sure ) i think this could still be done on the cheap, and the unit could end up being smaller, well at least narrower. i could be way off, but for the sake of experiment, i think i might have to give this a go, nothing to lose. how's this sound, am i way off? |
here's another Agus35 shoot test...
http://altoque.tv/35mmAdapter/Agus35maseratitest.wmv you cannot put the GG 45, cause one side will be in a larger distance from the lens, what you can do is put a mirror 45 degres just like a SLR camera, and then you put the GG and then a pentaprims that correct the image... |
(there must be a good reason why this wouldn't work)
What about just spinning the GG away and to the camera? **POV of camera lens looking out** [Motor] |----------| |---GG---| |----------| |----------| [Motor] **TOP View** ___ CAM| CAM| CAM| CAM| .|_| __M__ //GG - from this view, GG spins clockwise (edges would be at 9 and 3 right now) if you could spin the glass fast enough...would it create the same effect? maybe not...think of anything waving fast enough - it blurs and you cannot tell whether it is there or not at that instant...as long as you keep the shutter speed down? (which you would have to anyways because of light issues and trying to avoid seeing the grain on the glass. i am sure it is totally wrong... another idea I had was to spin the glass from a wheel attached to the edge of the circle...think a polarizer...you can adjust it by turning it..but it stays in place the entire time right? this might create the vortex effect people talk about with mini35...if someone could actually explain WHAT that is that would be great if these ideas fail I am going to look into creating a sturdy agus35 of my own in the near future congrats Agus! Rob |
seens too complicated and dont know if it would work, remember that the ideas is to keep it simple and make it simple to build, another thing is the vibration....
vibration is your worst enemy, cause it will be transfered to the camera and you will get bad footage. now... i thought of another way to make the whole box really small, but that will be in the commercial version... :) |
Well I talked to my brother, who is a CNC machinist...and here is what he said:
"The camera rig doesn't look to hard to make after a little research on how it works. From what I can tell it is a rig that holds a video-camera in back of a special optical lens to record destorted images.It also looks full adjustable - I am guessing for different positions for what you would be capturing. I think the best thing to do is get as much info as possible to see what and how the camera has to be mounted to the lense and what the adjustments do to the picture being captured.We can talk about it more over the phone or at christmas time. " So I think if I can explain to him in non-video terms what I'm looking for, we can build a SOLID one out of metal and use REAL GG, and some rails.... for ALOT less than the real thing.... Cool! |
Agus,
Everything with my adapter seems to be working out fine, except that the image projected onto the cd is very dark. Is this normal and what can be done about it? Thanks Mike Perkin |
<<<-- Originally posted by Mike Perkin : Agus,
Everything with my adapter seems to be working out fine, except that the image projected onto the cd is very dark. Is this normal and what can be done about it? Thanks Mike Perkin -->>> Be sure that the lens aperture is fully open, you will lose some light, like 5 steps, so indoor at night you will need to light up a lot... also check the max aperture size of the lens, mine is 1:2 and i get no vigneting and i have plenty of light... another thing is that the plastic GG will lose a lot of light as well. |
Hi everyone, this is my first post here and this thread was the reason I joined!
I just started working on an Agus35 this evening but I'm concerned about wobble in the CD. I did my best to get it running smoothly when spun by the motor, but couldn't get it "flat" - the image tends to move. At slow speed it's very noticable and when spun up it makes things rather blurry. Has anyone else experienced this? Or even better, found a solution? Also, there seems to be some pretty good gyroscopic force at play. My disc is spinning quite fast (the disc came loose from the motor once and took off across the room, bumping into the wall and staying upright and spinning for several more seconds). Has gyroscopic force been a problem for anyone? And last but definately not least - has anyone attempted to properly backfocus their lense? I find it VERY handy when the focus marks on the lense match what's being focused on the film (or ground glass, in this case). It's a pretty precise thing (don't remeber the distance off hand) but I was wondering if anyone hand any tips on that. So far it seems like a good project. I played around a bit with a 16mm lense and it was exciting! I have to go shopping for some 35mm lenses tomorrow :-) |
<<<-- Originally posted by Ryan Henry : Hi everyone, this is my first post here and this thread was the reason I joined!
I just started working on an Agus35 this evening but I'm concerned about wobble in the CD. I did my best to get it running smoothly when spun by the motor, but couldn't get it "flat" - the image tends to move. At slow speed it's very noticable and when spun up it makes things rather blurry. Has anyone else experienced this? Or even better, found a solution? Also, there seems to be some pretty good gyroscopic force at play. My disc is spinning quite fast (the disc came loose from the motor once and took off across the room, bumping into the wall and staying upright and spinning for several more seconds). Has gyroscopic force been a problem for anyone? -->>> Well about the cd coming loose and taking a spin through the room happened a lot to me :)... actually i broke 2 GG in the begining stages... Ok, the problem is that you don have a good platform for the cd, so it comes and go... that is the hardest part, but seen like other people have been able to correct this with zero vibration using a cd player piece. Congrats dude, and now that you have join there are also so many hot topics i this webpage that you will enjoy. |
Given that ideas of manufacturing for profit or reward are starting to appear, it might be time for everyone to consider things legal such as intellectual property, patents, the possible infringement thereof and another perennial U.S. favorite, product liability.
The makers of the Mini35 and any existing competing products are probably not going to become injured if people home-brew by reverse design, their own versions for private use. The makers of the Mini35 might even like the idea because videographers having tasted the fruits of a home-brew setup, might then hit a wall in terms of that last level of reliability/performance/perfection. They might then buy the real thing when they need to perform consistently, meet deadlines and/or manage to raise the price of the real thing. However if a commercial entity evolves and eats into market share, you can be sure there will be interest. If the point is reached where the costs of losing a patent infringement action become less than the lost revenue stream, then that interest can be expected to become active and interventional. Stand-out key issues already are the number “35” in the applied context to describe the devices and the design concept. Though the Mini35 builder employs commonplace engineering and optical principles, the unique application and innovative combination of these, may constitute distinct intellectual property, sufficiently convincing for a court to decide to confer protection and relief. If the Mini35 people are smart, they might pre-empt the marketplace with a strip version of their own product or a short-form kit of essential optical elements for home-brewers. |
<==If the Mini35 people are smart, they might pre-empt the marketplace with a strip version of their own product or a short-form kit of essential optical elements for home-brewers. ==>
THat s the whole idea, to brake up the market and make it more accesible, just like the Ford T Yeah, we are all awared, and what is best, we will make it, and we will make also a comercial version, just like the chinese copy all and sell it cheap for everybody, we will make a homemade version of it. I believe that the world is a like a big jungle, eat or be eaten, so in this case, we dont want to spend 12k - 16k in a mini 35 completed system, we want to spend 30$ bucks min... and many people are willing to spend 800 bucks in a comercial version, that let me mentioned, i never saw a mini35, neither knew or exactly know how it works... only the concept... that it is a camera obscura, and they have a spining GG, yeah... you can reach to that point and say "we need to shake or move this" as soon as you build the adapter and you see the grain... So in conclusion, i will leave the germans to their bussines, which they are earning millions, me.... i will make it for free for all those who doesnt have money, and are poor indie filmakers like me... and for all others that want to spend an affordable price for a well build adapter... but dont have the money for a mini35, cause come on... lets be realistic, it cost a fortune !!! Also, anyone no happy with this project should go and spend those 12-15k, cause either you like it or not.. the project is out, there are people building it, and more and more each day... just like the day that someone relase the first mp3, (well, thinking big...but) this is the same thing. Now with a camera less than 500bucks you will get DOF of 35mm cameras... which will be useful for those that in some future will want to film with real 35mm but cant afford the studies for it.. this is the perfect training... of course for free and with amazing video quality. Thanks for everybody who support this project, and hey...this thread have been viewed more than 10,000 TIMES !!!... |
I know where you are coming from and have no issue in bringing the product fairly to the masses who could never be in the marketplace for the Mini35 for the very reasons you state.
The open-source movement as exampled by the Linux community illustrates where it can go to the benefit of everyone and I guess this is the ideal you seek with the Agus35. Like you, I like to experiment and innovate, some things work, some don't, - home made steadicam, window mount, camera crane which automatically tilts the camera at groundlevel and can be set to automatically find a preset height, all without added power, Super16 conversions of CP16 and Bolex H16RX5 motion film cameras. One of the more morally bankrupt and unjust examples of patent exclusivity in recent times has been the attempt by pharmaceutical companies to effectively deny essential medications to people in the poorer countries by trying to block low-cost production of reverse engineered generic substitutes. In relation to the Mini35 substitute, there are however some people who may be less protected in some countries from ruinous litigation than in others. They simply need to be mindful of this possibility and then proceed accordingly. The open-source ideal, if this is what you are collectively embracing might best be protected by the Agus35 movement assuming some organised identity, registering and patenting its own innovations in all countries where there are builders before other players register them and lock you all out. Then make these innovations open to all to use on condition that furthur innovations built on the earlier work are themselves free to all designers. At the least, through company law in many countries, this might protect individuals from suit. The Linux open-source community model might be a good one to study. |
How to mount it all to the camera:
Tape is a good ally, as well as hot glue, if dont try to build a lens mount, copy the shape and lock system from the SLR camera. then make a metal skeleton (you can use metal rods, or just a metal piece) that connects the adapter to the tripod hole of your dv camera. |
Richard Mellor's most recent photos:
http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmcameratop.jpg http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmcamsupport1.jpg http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmcamsupport2.jpg http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmfrontview.jpg http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmfullview.jpg http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmpicture041.jpg http://www.dvinfo.net/media/rmsideview.jpg |
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