Sony NEX-VG10 AVCHD E-Mount Lens Camcorder

[Bill Koehler]

Originally Posted by Ron Little

Is anybody thinking that this would work great with a Nanoflash?

I sure hope that it has uncompressed video out from the HDMI connector.

Yes. But I would like to know first:
1. If the camera outputs uncompressed HDMI when shooting.
2. The camera shoots interlaced or progressive, even if the latter is most likely in psf.

[Bill Koehler]

Originally Posted by Robert Young

Well, Buba, you are indeed the voice in my other ear.
I do love my CX550. It's still hard for me to believe that a $1K consumer cam could set the standard, but it really does.
When I think about buying the VG10, I make the assumption that Sony will extend this line over time, including faster E series lenses with AF, AE, IS, etc. That's when the voice of caution tells me I should just wait and see :)

99% of the time I'm on a tripod, so no IS doesn't bother me in the slightest, but no AF does.
It's those near-sighted over 50 year old eyes thing.

As far as faster glass goes, with an adapter(s) you can put Canon, Nikon, or Pentax glass on.
Sony coming out with more lenses would be very nice, but is not essential.

[Steve Mullen]

"... it could be that the VG10 appeals to the "old timers" who remember when nothing about shooting was automated. When we see the hand-driven zooms in documentaries like "Woodstock" we get a rush."

Very good. :)

My tag line is "Putting the Photographer Back in Shooting Video."

The VG10 has nothing unnecessary. Nothing but the manual controls needed to shoot video, but with the capability to set each function to Auto as needed.

The big difference between the VG10 and the film cameras pictured is they had a manual control for each and Sony has gone with an computer interface -- one that would never have been accepted by Steve Jobs.

I shot in bright daylight and with the shutter-speed at 1/40th second the aperture was between f/16 and f/22. Clearly an ND filter is needed.

PS: I've owned the 4008ZM and the K2.

[Brian Drysdale]

I don't mind the auto functions being there, I just don't want to fight them, working out work arounds when I want to be controlling the camera, not the camera controlling me.

[Steve Mullen]

Each function has an AUTO ON/OFF mode controlled by its own button. You don't even have to go into the menu!

I keep finding the so called "reviews" are wrong. For example, an Alpha 50(90)mm/1.8 does have its aperture controlled by the VG10.

However, everyone needs to understand HOW these STILL camera lenses work via the adaptor. They STEP from one aperture size to another. That means the step-size is determined by the lens itself. That means, you cannot use a STILL lens and have it work like a camcorder lens. Now that's not a huge surprise, but I'll bet there will be screams about it.

The solution, of course, iS to choose older (non-DT) lenses that have an aperture ring. These, of course, will require fully manual operation -- although the VG10 signals you when the exposure is correct. Think of the "match-the-needle" movie cameras.

So for those who want a REAL manual camcorder, the VG10 is really sweet!

Yet, with the E-mount lenses -- it is quite happy to run automatically.

PS: Because of the hi-rez LCD/VF I haven't found getting focus any different than using the ground-glass on any of my film cameras. In fact, if anyone cares, I can explain why the current camcorder Focus Assists don't really work. But, it's time for sleep.

[Lynne Whelden]

ha ha My first 16mm film project in college was shot on a softball-sized Bell and Howell 70 spring-wound camera with a 3-lens turret. You could get about 60 seconds before you had to rewind. Edits were with razor blades and film cement.
My first tv cameraman job was with a Canon Scoopic. Had a manual zoom and a magnetic strip on the 16mm film but when you edited it (same day edit, mind you) you had to take into account the sound head was 16 (or was it 18?) frames ahead of the picture.
My first documentary film was shot on a Nizo 6080 Super 8 camera with manual zoom. There I was standing waist-deep in the rushing Kennebeck River in Maine having to change film cartridges because you only got about 3 minutes to a roll.

Funny thing is that the images on those 16mm and even 8mm films still rival what's being shot on today's HD cameras! That's why it seems like it's always "one step forward, two steps back."

[Lynne Whelden]

Steve, I'd like to know why the so-called "focus-assist" doesn't really work. Let me guess...by the time the image is magnified, it's so soft it's impossible to tell the difference between "soft" and "softer?"

[Paul Cronin]

Steve why are you shooting 1/40 shutter. Are you not shooting 30p (29.97p)? If so you should shoot 1/60 which would help with the need for ND.

[Jim Snow]

One piece of feedback that I will be looking for in early reviews is the performance of auto focus on the VG10. It appears that the camera can be set to use different zones in the field of view to control auto focus. If the camera will allow you to set an area that will be the focus reference, that will be very useful in some shooting situations. The problem with most video cameras is that you have no control over this. As a result, auto focus can be very dangerous to use particularly if you are using the 'rule of thirds' to frame your subject. You run a real risk of the camera focusing on the background or another subject.

This problem will be even more serious with a camera with a shallow depth of field like the VG10 because an out of focus condition can be much more severe. I almost never use auto focus now because of these problems. But there are times when it would be useful if it could be depended on. One of the problem that I have with all but the best DSLR shooters is the wandering focus and out of focus shots. Because of the shallow depth of field, managing focus is more difficult with these cameras.

[Steve Mullen]

Originally Posted by Lynne Whelden

Steve, I'd like to know why the so-called "focus-assist" doesn't really work. Let me guess...by the time the image is magnified, it's so soft it's impossible to tell the difference between "soft" and "softer?"

When a camcorder has an image magnification feature it magnifies the center of the image.

1) You can use it before you start shooting to achieve focus. Unfortunately, IF it turns off when you begin recording you cannot use it to adjust focus while shooting.

2) IF it does NOT turn-off, it's very hard to frame the scene because you are only seeing the center!

When a camcorder features a “peaking” function that places a colored outline on sharp edges that are in focus it too can create problems.

1) Soft edges like a close-up of a face may not be outlined at all.

2) At other times everything is outlined. This indication, while seemingly unlikely, is quite valid because when shooting wide everything WILL be in focus. Unfortunately, the entire scene becomes red, blue, or green.

Most of these functions were introduced because the VF/LCD were only quarter FullHD. That is no longer the case.

[Steve Mullen]

Originally Posted by Jim Snow

One piece of feedback that I will be looking for in early reviews is the performance of auto focus on the VG10. It appears that the camera can be set to use different zones in the field of view to control auto focus.

I haven't found this function. In STILL mode it can do Spot, Center, and Multi.

=============

It's now clear to me there are three different approaches to using VG10:

1) E-mount lens

2) A-mount lens

3) Full manual lens

The camera is simple, but once you introduce interchangeable lens things get complicated fast!

[Jim Snow]

Steve, what type of auto focus functionality do you see in video mode?

[Monday Isa]

Originally Posted by Steve Mullen

...I keep finding the so called "reviews" are wrong. For example, an Alpha 50(90)mm/1.8 does have its aperture controlled by the VG10.

However, everyone needs to understand HOW these STILL camera lenses work via the adaptor. They STEP from one aperture size to another. That means the step-size is determined by the lens itself. That means, you cannot use a STILL lens and have it work like a camcorder lens. Now that's not a huge surprise, but I'll bet there will be screams about it.

The solution, of course, iS to choose older (non-DT) lenses that have an aperture ring. These, of course, will require fully manual operation -- although the VG10 signals you when the exposure is correct. Think of the "match-the-needle" movie cameras.

So for those who want a REAL manual camcorder, the VG10 is really sweet!

Yet, with the E-mount lenses -- it is quite happy to run automatically....

Steve are you saying that you have aperture control with A-mounts on the NEX-VG10? You can dial in your desired F-stop?

[Steve Mullen]

Originally Posted by Paul Cronin

Steve why are you shooting 1/40 shutter. Are you not shooting 30p (29.97p)? If so you should shoot 1/60 which would help with the need for ND.

Assuming you want a 180-degree shutter, then you are correct with 30p the shutter-speed should be 1/60th.

BUT, for those of us who have been shooting 30p since the JVC HD1/HD10 we know we'll see strobing when each frame is presented twice on a video monitor. To help cover-over the strobing, one adds a bit more motion blur -- hence 1/40th.

But you'll need an ND anyway as to get a shallow DOF you need an aperture of about f/4 on the bundled lens. So that's 5-stops of light reduction from f/22.

==========

Steve are you saying that you have aperture control with A-mounts on the NEX-VG10? You can dial in your desired F-stop? YES -- just use the VG10 dial. BUT, exposure will not change during shooting.

PS: 2 more of my babies: an H8 and an H16.

[Monday Isa]

Originally Posted by Steve Mullen

YES -- just use the VG10 dial. BUT, exposure will not change during shooting....

I am really confused. So you can change the aperture but the exposure doesn't change while shooting? Does that mean you dial in your desired aperture and then film? Thanks Steve